Australia Day 24 – Friday 22nd June

Well, that was an interesting nights sleep. Or not, for Paul. I didn’t sleep too bad, but the train was not smooth and silent. There was some straps that stopped me from falling out of the top bunk – don’t think they were used. I was quite happy up there – had a reading light and a little shelf to put my things on. I woke up at about 7.00am – breakfast was at 7.30am so good timing. I leaned over the top, and asked Paul if he had slept well.; “No” was the answer. “Too hot, bed was too small, covers came untucked, train was too jerky and too noisy”. Oh dear!




I did contemplate taking a shower when Alistair said that he thought he had a hairdryer. But then he couldn’t find it, so decided against it. Look a bit like the wreck of the Hesperus, so will have to sort that out when we get to Brisbane. It looks really grey and cloudy now – think Paul might have to buy a jumper!



Breakfast was again excellent – Paul had full English, I had poached eggs on toast. Eggs came any way we wanted (should have tried the omelette here!) together with pastries, toast, fruit, cereals etc. Whilst we were at breakfast, the beds were put away and the compartment made into seating again. The first main stop was Bundaberg – four hours drive from Brisbane, but a bit longer than that on the train. About six hours to go I think.



The smaller little towns and villages that we have passed through look very much like a scene out of the Wild West. The further we get to Brisbane, the flatter the land. Some of the houses look as if they are in the middle of nowhere. They probably are. We passed the Glasshouse Mountains – named by Captain Cook as he sailed past because they reminded him of the Glass Houses at home. One of them looks more like King Kong than a glass house.



We seem to have gone rather slowly today – having to stop several times to let a tilt train go past. There is only one track, with several passing places, so if another train is either coming faster from behind or the other way one of the trains has to go onto the siding. One of our travelling companions was the station master at Brisbane Roma Street Station, so we got all the ins and outs of the Queensland Railway System.



Lunch was a two course meal – hot quiche and salad, followed by espresso terrine and tia maria cream. Again, an excellent meal. After then, it should have been a couple of hours until we got to Brisbane, due to arrive at 15.55pm. Unfortunately, because of the stoppages, we were running about thirty minutes late. Because of this, another tilt train had been allocated our platform, so we couldn’t pull into the station until 5.00pm. According to our Station Master, this used to happen all the time.



We slowly chugged into Roma Street Station just over an hour late. Fran, Georgina and Madison were there to meet us on the platform. What a lovely surprise! We got the luggage from the luggage car and hopped in a taxi for the short distance to the Sofitel. $6 so it wasn’t far. We checked in, checked out the room, had a lovely shower and then went into the city for dinner. We walked through the centre and then along the river to the South Bank. There is a Brisbane Wheel, similar to the London Eye, and most bizarrely a man playing the bagpipes. A bit like Covent Garden. We had something to eat around here, and then got a taxi back to the hotel as the children were getting tired. Gave Fran a lovely bag of washing to take back with her – nice to get a bit of payback for the years of washing I had to pick up from her bedroom floor! She wasn’t too impressed with the bag – said it made her look like a homeless person. Let’s hope she makes it through the Sofitel Lobby without getting thrown out then!!

Australia Day 23 – Thursday 21st June

Another early start today, to be checked out and left the hotel by 7.30am for our transfer to Cairns Central Railway Station. Breakfast was a meal that we had on our own – the scrambled eggs that were there at 6.30am no doubt would still be there for the customers arriving at 8! Not many people eat this early on holiday out of choice.




It took around half an hour to get to the station – plenty of time for our 09.15am departure of the Sunlander Train from Cairns to Brisbane. We checked in main bags into the baggage car – having to unpack 3kg out of one of them, as they can “only lift a maximum of 20kg due to health and safety”. We had a bag of wet clothes from yesterday that hadn’t dried out from the white water rafting that didn’t help! They did give us an extra bag though – might come in handy at some point.



We are travelling Queenslander Class – and met out Maitre d’ Alistair on the platform, who directed us to our cabin. We have a two berth cabin, that is seating during the day, and converts to bunk beds at night. Wonder who will be getting the top bunk? It is a very long train, but only two carriages of Queenslander Class, some normal sleeper carriages, and some seated carriages. We have a washbasin concealed in the wall, two very slim wardrobes and room for the bags under the seat. There is a shower and toilet at the end of the carriage – no hairdryer though. Might have to rough it on here! But, we also have complimentary robes to take away with us and a bag of toiletries. Didn’t really need to bring anything with us at all.



We pull out of the station at 9.15am exactly – well we aren’t on British Rail are we! No sooner have we pulled out, then Alistair invites us to the Lounge car for our welcome drink. Looks like there is about fourteen of us altogether. We are served orange juice, and then invited to go to the dining car for morning scones and coffee. Can see I might be waddling off this train! The scones were straight from the oven – and served with jam and cream. Paul reckons the best scones he has ever tasted – I will have to get the recipe.



The Sunlander travels between Cairns and Brisbane and vice versa twice a week. You can get on or off at any of the stops inbetween – Townsville, Airlie Beach, Mackay, Yeppon, Rockhampton, Gladstone, Bundaberg or Maryborough being the main ones, but loads of other little stops as well. The distance travelled is 1600 kilometres over 30 odd hours, so it isn’t a fast train. It is regarded as one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world, being constantly voted in the top 25. It commenced in 1953 – the year of the Queen’s coronation, so quite apt that we should be taking it in 2012 just as she has commemorated her diamond jubilee. The Queenslander Class was added ten years ago, for customers that appreciate those “extra comforts” – like me. One of the hallmarks of this service is the fine dining, with food freshly prepared onboard. There is also commentary when we pass something significant. It is quite an old train, so none of the new fangled gizmos like wifi. They are, apparently, due for a new train in 2014 which will bring it up to date.



As we travel southwards from Cairns, we pass through sugar cane fields, banana tree fields, and seem to be travelling besides the main road –the A1 or Bruce Highway. The cars are overtaking us though! We pass peoples back gardens – it seems banana trees are in back gardens, like apple trees are in our back gardens. The mountains are always in the background, and surprisingly there is no sign of the coast at all.



Lunch is served at 1pm. We had a seafood platter – and wow, what a platter it was. If I had had my camera with me, I would have taken a picture. Eight of the biggest prawns I have ever seen, a whole bug (and for those, like me, that did not know what bugs were, it is a lobster type thing) crab, oysters, fresh fruit and salad. Rather a messy affair – but bowls of water on the table helped. And then apple and rhubard crumble and macadamia ice cream for pudding. I had to leave some!



The afternoon was spent leisurely travelling through the countryside. Paul chatted in the lounge car – I read my kindle now I have some decent books. We are the youngest in this section by some way. One couple have actually brought their car with them. You can drive it on, and then drive it off at the other end!



Dinner was at 7.00pm – and again was lovely. It isn’t the same as the Orient Express, but it still is really good. Whilst we were at dinner, the bunks were made up – and I was right. It was me up the ladder!

Australia Day 22 – Wednesday 20th June

We had breakfast this morning at the Fawlty Towers restaurant again. It really is most bizarre – a complete change of staff, but still the same peculiar service. The waitress said they had scrambled eggs on the buffet, but if we wanted eggs cooked other ways we just had to tell her and the chef would do them. As I do not eat eggs that are not freshly cooked, I asked for an omelette. She said that would cost extra – but I could have eggs cooked any other way and they would be included. I changed it to poached eggs, and went to put my toast in the toaster in preparation. She came back with my eggs eventually, and gave me “hard poached eggs”. Where did that come from? Paul reckons it is my accent. I reckon Basil is out the back.




After the trauma of breakfast, we decided to walk the beach. We walked for two hours, and still didn’t get to the end. This really is a spectacular beach. We probably met less than ten people the whole time we were walking. The sand is lovely, no stones or rocks, and lovely to walk on. Barefoot on the sand – how romantic! Paul was doing all of this without his hat – yippee! There was a life guard station a mile or so up the beach, with a big poster on the side showing all the stinging jellyfish that you will find in the sea. It went from the box jellyfish that will stop you breathing when you are bitten, to about eight others that varied from “seek medical attention immediately” to “soak the sting in vinegar”. There are several vinegar stations along the beach – I wonder how many times they are used?



This afternoon was our white water rafting adventure. This was Paul’s idea – I really did not fancy this one. But, as he reminded me, he has done all the other bits that he didn’t want to do, so I had to do this one. We were collected by a van with “Raging Thunder” on the front – felt like saying I had a raging headache and heading back into the hotel. But I didn’t. We got on the bus, and the driver had rock music on really loud – I could feel this was not going to be my cup of tea. We got to the meeting point at Lake Placid, and met up with the others that were rafting this afternoon – and we certainly were the oldest by several years. Once we had moved everyone up to the starting point, about five kilometres up the Barron River, we were sorted into rafts. I did point out quite loudly that I wanted the “wimp” boat – Paul could go in another one if he wants. Some of the rafts were full of youngsters with dreadlocks and looked as if they wanted to go at several hundred miles an hour. I was hoping not to be put in one of those. We were put with a family of four, and another British guy on a four month trip of Australia – all looked pretty normal, as did the “driver” Mezza. Not sure what to call him, but he was in charge of the raft and knew what he was doing.



We were issued with lifejackets, helmets and paddles (how am I supposed to hold on and paddle I wondered) and walked down to the river. There is a power station a little way up the river, and they let out water periodically that makes the rapids. There was about nine rafts on the water, and there were some crazy people. We were given our instructions – how to hold on when he shouts “hold” and how to get in the boat when he shouts “get down”. Great! We started down, and had to learn all to paddle at the same time, either backwards or forwards. We had to sit on the side, but there was a blown up bit across the raft that you could hook your foot under. Big deal! We started going quite gently – this bit was fine. Then we came across a load of rocks that didn’t look as if there was enough room for a raft to get through. Wrong! We had to “hold” then “get down” then “jump up”. The first two were no problem, jumping up took a bit more time. With both feet now hooked under the blown up bit, and my bottom wedged between that and the bit behind me, jumping up was not an option. Struggling up was more like it. By the time I had got back up, it was time to “get down” again. I could see this was going to be a long afternoon. I was determined not to fall out – I didn’t have any insurance for one thing.



We then got to the first big waterfall. I could see it coming! I “got down” and somehow managed to lose my paddle. Oh dear! Not only was I stuck, wedged in the bottom of the boat, I had lost a major bit of equipment. That will get me out of paddling! At the bottom of the waterfall, Mezza gives me a paddle. “Oh good” I said “You have brought a spare”. “No” he says. “Just picked yours up”. Wonder whether he would pick me up so swiftly? A few in the boat went out at this point for a swim – not me! We picked them up again, and went down a few more rapids. Either I was getting used to it, or it wasn’t very hard. It didn’t seem too bad at all. We got to a big one, and Mezza tried very hard to knock a few people out of the raft. Not me – I was hanging on for grim death. The boat was so full of water, I don’t know how it was still floating.



Then Mezza said that was it. No more rapids, just a gentle paddle to the end. Everyone, including Paul, jumped out of the boat, and got swept down a little rapid. Not me – I was staying firmly in the boat. We picked them up, and then paddled for ten minutes or so until we got to the end. Ha! I had survived. Not too bad either. Until we changed out of our wet clothes, and they had had a photographer taking pictures from the road all the way along. They gave us a slide show, and we could buy all the pictures on a stick for $30. Not bad value. Virtually every picture had me with my eyes closed, looking as if I was in front of a firing squad, and so far down in the boat I was glued to the bottom. Perhaps I didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought then!



We were dropped back off at the hotel, and had dinner at Fawlty Towers. The service may be laughable, but the food was really good!

Australia Day 21 – Tuesday 19th June

Today we transferred from Silky Oaks to the Kewarra Beach Resort, about fifteen miles north of Cairns. The drive down the Captain Cook Highway is excellent – perhaps not quite as scenic as the Great Ocean Road, but not far behind.




The fields on either side are full of sugar cane – and yesterday was the day that it was started to be harvested. It should have been about three weeks ago, but unseasonally they had a huge downpour that made the cane too wet to harvest. Even though Silky Oaks is fairly elevated – all the rooms are on stilts – the river runs right next to the resort. There is a couple of tables and chairs by the river, and when it rained last it was so unexpected it caught everyone by surprise. A couple of the staff had to wade into the river to retrieve the furniture from the rising water level. In the wet season, they are partially cut off from the road, and have to use a boat for customers and supplies for the last part of the journey.



There were several eagles, kites and falcons soaring above the sugar cane. As soon as it is started to be harvested, they lurk. There are so many little animals that live in the cane, that all have to run out into the open when it is cut, it is breakfast, lunch and dinner. The most poisonous snake in Australia, the Taipan, also lives in the sugar cane, so I wouldn’t want to get out of the harvester for a smoke or a cup of tea! They have a really neat system of taking it to the factory – all of the fields are connected by train tracks, and little carriages are taken round, filled and transported without any lorries on the road.



The journey south takes around two hours – we used the shuttle bus again, which means we share with other people and have to collect and drop off at various hotels on the way. We had two pick ups, and we were the first to be dropped off, so no problem. The Kewarra Beach Resort is a beach resort, and we are here for two nights before taking the Sunlander Train from Cairns to Brisbane on Thursday. It has a lovely open plan reception, with another lovely restaurant. We are given a cold fruit tea drink on arrival – somehow don’t think that that will take the place of campari in my heart! We are then shown to our lovely little bungalow – I do like these rooms that aren’t just a little box off a long corridor. We can walk out of the balcony doors and straight onto the beach. As we were being shown to the room, we were told that there are two kangaroos that live here, and one has just had a baby. There is also a huge monitor called George. Let’s hope they aren’t so elusive as the nocturnal creatures we didn’t see last night. We walked around the resort to get our bearings, and saw hardly another soul. Either the place is empty, or everyone is out on tours. I saw a sunlounger with my name on it down on the beach. So with kindle in hand – I have had to pay to download a “proper” book, the free ones were getting on my wick they were so awful, perhaps I have just chosen badly – I plonked my bottom down for the afternoon. The first time on this holiday, I think, that we have had an extended period of doing nothing. The only problem was the wind – it wasn’t blowing a gale, but it was blowing. And if you didn’t sit directly in the sun it was cold – yes, cold! I had goosebumps on my arms. Paul decided to sit by the pool until a young family upset his quiet (wonder how many people we have done that to in our past?) then he walked to the end of the beach and back. It is a really long beach – and for the first time I have actually seen people taking their dogs for a walk. I stuck it out though, even though it was really too cold and windy to sit on the beach, and I was the only one left – I am British!



Dinner was an event – the restaurant was a bit like Fawlty Towers. There seemed to be a bit of friction between the few staff that were working – they all seemed to be very busy, but not doing much. We seemed to get ignored as we were sitting by the bar. We ordered menus, and after thirty minutes they still hadn’t arrived. The German lady behind the bar just smiled, and was typically German. The restaurant lady just didn’t want to look at us. It took a little bit of sarcasm to remind them that we paid their wages. That sorted it! Apart from that, dinner was excellent. And German Eva came over and apologised and gave us a complimentary coffee. I thought perhaps she was just having a bad day – on our way out she said her husband was having a heart operation tomorrow, that explained it. Not sure about the others though!

Australia Day 20 – Monday 18th June

A really leisurely start today, as we had nothing planned for definite during the day. We had a late breakfast, thinking that we could then miss lunch. As we have an early dinner booked at 6.00pm as we are going on a two hour guided walk at 8.00pm.




The Lodge has a car that will run you to various places, so we decided to go to Mossman Gorge, as there is a couple of good hikes to do. They dropped us off at 12pm and said they would pick us back up at 2.20pm. We walked down the little lane to get into the Daintree National Park where Mossman Gorge is situated, to be presented with a sign at the bottom saying that the suspension bridge is closed for safety reasons, therefore the bigger loop we were going to do was inaccessible. Bugger! It was, yet again, a lovely day, so we just took our time walking around the smaller loop. There is a vivid blue butterfly called Ulysses that is absolutely stunning – you can see it flying from around a hundred yards away it is such a bright colour. Trying to photograph it is another matter – it hardly ever lands, and so far I have only managed a blue blur. One of these days. The walk around is in rainforest, but on boardwalks so that the plant life is not disturbed. There is also a swimming hole that several people are making use of. We get back to the pick up area around forty five minutes early, so Paul phones the Lodge and they come and pick us up early. Just before they arrived, Paul sees another of the Ulysses butterfly, and whips out his camera to try and video it. Gone before the camera comes out of the case. We drive back to the Lodge, and Paul then realises that he has left his hat where he was sitting trying to get a photo of the butterfly – oh dear, what a shame!



There is a couple of hiking trails to the back of the Lodge, so we decided to do those instead. We had to sign out at reception – if you don’t report back in within a certain time they will send a search party out for you. We get stocked up with water and off we go. The first part is easy – past Melaluca Island, and then we took the Low Trail to get to the Wave Rock Picnic Site. The Lodge will pack up a picnic hamper if you want to make a day of it. That wasn’t so bad. A few rocks and tree roots on the path, so you had to make sure you looked where you were going. At wave rock, you had to jump a couple of boulders into the middle of the river to get a good picture of it. I decided it wasn’t worth getting a wet foot for a picture of a rock, so let Paul do it. He didn’t get wet feet. Just as Paul turned to go back on to the trail, an aboriginal lad appeared from nowhere. He smiled, and jumped onto the rocks in the river. Wonder what he was doing there? Gave Paul a bit of a fright! From there on it got rather more difficult. The path was under a foot wide in places, with tree roots, tree trunks, rocks and you name it all in the way. It was really slow going, and very difficult. “They should make the girls in reception do this, so they warn customers what it is like” says Paul. “You need to be a 78 year Orion passenger at least!”



The sweat was literally pouring off my face. It was so difficult. With everything that crawls and grows on trees, I was a bit reluctant to grab onto anything to help keep my balance, but after a few minutes into this last bit I was grabbing onto anything. At one point a rock fall had completely covered the path, and you actually had to go down the slope and back up the other side to get round it. Whose idea was this? The walk was to Fig Tree Rapids – and soon the rushing water could be heard. Thank god for that! But we weren’t there yet. More tree roots, rocks, and streams were between us and them. It wasn’t so bad going flat, it was all the up and down that caused the problems. But, we made it. There was a group of young people swimming and waving over the other side of the river. “They probably came on the bus” said Paul. He insisted we jumped onto the last possible boulder before the rapids, as we were there. It was lovely to sit down though – the sweat was still poring off my body. There was a big green ant on the rock – probably came out of my shirt sleeve. Goodness knows what hopped onto me whilst I was clinging onto trees and rocks for dear life.



After a five minute rest it was time to start the trek back – and it didn’t actually seem as bad as when we had come. Perhaps I am getting better at it – on second thoughts probably not. We took the Low Trail to get there, and the High Trail to get back. Once we had gone past Wave Rock it was a lot better track – anything would have seemed better than that last bit. I had to peel my clothes off me, they were soaking wet with sweat. Hopefully a few calories burned there then! Paul went for a beer and to check us back in – I wonder how many people they lose on the tracks? He had a chat with one of the managers, who said that an American couple had come back from the trek to Fig Tree Rapids last week and said that the track was impassable. Didn’t make me feel so much of a wimp then! She also told him that the kids we saw swimming across the river were at Mossman Gorge – so it wasn’t so far off that they caught the bus! He then went to the beach billabong for a “refreshing” swim – I think the water was a bit cold. I passed.



On the way to dinner we saw a great big fat toad crossing the path. The cane toad around here is poisonous – no idea what this one was. I had kangaroo risotto for dinner and it was delicious. Medium rare is the only way to have it cooked, apparently, otherwise it tastes like shoe leather. Hand feeding them one day, eating them the next………..such is life.



We went for our night walk with a peculiar old bird called Erin. She liked saying aaaannddd and nothing after it. We did see the Bush Turkeys asleep up a tree on a very slim branch, but not much else of what you can see in the dark. She took us into the rainforest (towards the Fig Tree Rapids Trail, and I thought I can’t do that in the dark) but only a short way. We had to all turn off our torches to see the fireflies – but there weren’t any. We went down to the river to see the turtles – but there weren’t any. We were looking for the insect eating bats flying low over the river – but there weren’t any. Never mind – it was a very pleasant walk!

Australia Day 19 – Sunday 17th June

Early morning alarm call at 7.00am this morning for our “Billy Tea Bush Safari”. Paul wasn’t going to book an early call, as the telephone didn’t tell him which number to press for reception. As he is always quoting Bear Grylls at me – presumably so that I know he can look after me if we ever get lost in the wilds – I told him that one of Bear Grylls top tips was to press 9 if there was no choice. It worked – but I don’t think he saw the humour in it!




Breakfast was in the Treehouse Restaurant (where else?) and was a la carte. Nothing standing about to get overdone here. We were being collected at 08.10am – but they didn’t actually arrive until 08.30am – could have had an extra half an hour in bed. There were six others and the driver in a four wheel drive bus, I think you would call it. The rest had joined the tour in Cairns, so we escaped the long two hour journey to here. We drove about half an hour up the road to Daintree, and stopped for coffee and biscuits at the Daintree River Cruise Centre, before getting on board for an hours river cruise.



The driver of the boat had an expert eye at spotting wildlife, had a wealth of knowledge and also a sense of humour. We first spotted a snake hanging in the tree, then a baby crocodile swimming all on its own. Each section of the river was territory for a female crocodile, Fang, Lizzie and two others I can’t remember, and one male crocodile for all of them – Scarface. We then went into a tributary, which the guide said was Lizzie’s nursery. There we saw baby crocodiles sunning themselves – four in a row on one branch. One lady said that she thought they were plastic, and just put there for tourists, to which the guide replied “The best way to tell is to shove your thumb up their arse”. You had to be there. We then saw Lizzie, and further along Scarface. He was huge. We also saw very pretty Azure Kingfishers, and other birds.



We disembarked the boat at the Daintree River Crossing – the bus had already travelled up river and met us on the other side. We hopped back in, and ascended the Alexandra Range, and got out to take photos at the Look Out. There is an island called Snapper Island that actually looks like a crocodile from a certain angle. You could also see Port Douglas from here.



Once we entered Daintree National Park, we got out for an hours walk in the rainforest. Turns out the driver is also an environmentalist guide, and was very knowledgeable on the vegetation in the area. The Daintree Rainforest is thought to be the oldest rainforest in the world, at over one hundred million years old. It apparently missed the ice age – or the ice age missed it, one or the other. Strange to think of dinosaurs walking around where we were – but looked as if they could have. We also saw a huge golden orb spider in its web. We were looking for the cassowary bird, which is only found up here and is quite rare – there are road signs and speed bumps all along the roads to keep the cars speed down so if one crosses the road it is less likely to get run over. We were all instructed what to do if we saw one – don’t run or scream, because that will make it run after you. He told us to google cassowary attack when we got home to see some very entertaining youtube videos. Someone had changed a couple of the road signs of a “Cassowary Bird Warning” and “Humps” to show a before and after cassowary bird if it got ran over – very funny!



We drove up the road for a bit, and then we stopped at a funny little place for lunch. The driver got all the food out of the back, and there was a barbeque already set up. He cooked the most massive steaks you have ever seen – they covered the plate. There were salads as well. One of the best lunches I think I have had on a day tour. There was also a place here where you could feed kangaroos. They had four or five in a large pen, but were extremely tame. They had a bucket of food, and a couple came bouncing up, One like to kiss and cuddle (yes, I did say kiss and cuddle) and the other liked to hold the bucket and eat itself. Very entertaining, if not a bit touristy.



We then travelled around ten miles past Cape Tribulation to a place called Emmagen Creek. The driver had all sorts of tropical fruit we had never heard of to taste, and also made tea in a billy can. Some went swimming in the creek – there is apparently no crocodiles here. This was just to the side of the “main” road – the road goes all the way to Cooktown, but is only a track that is flooded in some parts. The road is four wheel drive only. The other side of the road there was signs warning of crocodiles – obviously they don’t cross the main road! We then travelled back to Cape Tribulation, where the rainforest meets the reef – literally. The rainforest is all the way down to the beach. There is a lookout point, and then we walked along the beach. The tide was out quite a way. This is one of the very places in the world where this happens.



We then made a quick stop at the Daintree Ice Cream Factory, and tasted whattleseed, mango, raspberry and coconut ice cream (separately, not all together). It was lovely, and very refreshing. We then drove to the river crossing to get on the ferry across to the other side, and then made our way back to Silky Oaks. We got off, but the others had another two hours to go. Excellent!



A couple of hours to relax before dinner. They had brought the patio heaters out again tonight, but not lit them so it must have been a bit warmer. Fish for dinner – barramundi for Paul and Salmon for me. And no dessert. Perhaps the diet has started!

Australia Day 18 – Saturday 16th June

Early morning call at 5.00am this morning, as our flight leaves at 06.55am. What sort of a travel agent books a flight at that time of the morning? Unfortunately, that is the only Qantas flight between Darwin and Cairns, so that is what it had to be. Paul had been a star, and got up to get the washing out of the tumble drier that was still going when we went to bed – I had visions of having to take wet washing with us. At some point the tumble drier wasn’t giving out any hot air, but Paul fixed it. Glad I brought him with me now! It was going to be a squeeze getting all the luggage in the weight limit dry, let alone wet.




I think I have sussed it out now – pack as many heavy things in the little carry on case as you can. They never weigh it, although it states that the maximum hand luggage is 7kg. I probably will get caught, but until I do, the heavy stuff is going in the hand luggage. Good little purchase I think. The taxi arrived at 5.30am, right on time. I did wonder if it would turn up, but give the Medina their due, they had booked and paid for it. It took around twenty minutes to get to the airport – there was hardly any traffic on the roads at that time of the morning. We checked in with no weight problems (hurrah!) and the flight took off on time. The food was absolutely typical airline food – pretty awful. Although we did have poached eggs, and they were cooked to perfection – apart from they were cold. The roll that was served could have easily paved my drive. I broke it in half, and it was hard as a rock all the way through. I thought I would complain, but Paul told me not to bother. I did, the stewardess apologised, and brought me a fresh hot one that was absolutely delicious. It does pay to complain sometimes.



We actually landed fifteen minutes early, and it was smooth getting the luggage. We had a shuttle bus to take us to Mossman and Silky Oaks – and there was someone there with our name on to show us to the bus. This trip is going far too smoothly. The trip was just under two hours, as we had to drop off in Palm Cove and Port Douglas. Quite nice driving through those to have a look. Both places had lots of hotels and people though – I have been getting used to being out in the middle of nowhere.



We arrived at Silky Oaks, and the driver said “I hope you like not having lots of people around” – perfect! We were shown to our River House, which was beautiful. A hammock swinging on the balcony, overlooking a stream somewhere below all the tree canopy. The doors can be left open all night so you can hear the water and the nature – there is a screen that can be pulled out to keep the bugs away. I shall wait to hear for that herd of buffalo to go through first thing in the morning! We were given a list of the hiking trails and guided walks that we can take. Not sure how we are going to fit all of them in.



We had lunch in the Treehouse Restaurant – the only restaurant here. It is all open and overlooks the stream. Stunning! The prices reflect the view though! But the food was good, the service was good, and we are only here a few days. Paul then crashed out for a couple of hours (tumble drier duties catching up with him) so I went by the pool. It is a very natural pool, with very comfy loungers. Unfortunately, the bugs liked laying by the pool as well, and I felt there wasn’t room for both of us. When a couple of bush turkeys came in as well, it was time to go. I went and tried the hammock out – very nice. There was insect coils in the room to light when you were on the balcony to keep the bugs away. I think they did half a job. Hard to avoid them with all the rainforest around.



We then decided to do part of one of the hikes. It was very much like the Annapurna trail, only five minutes from the back of the resort. The little wooden bridges over streams and tree roots covering the paths were so similar. Some of the uphill paths brought back memories as well!

This holiday has been too much eating and not enough doing – my muscles have gone into hibernation. We hiked for about an hour down to Melaluca Island – not really an island, more a heap of stones in the middle of the river. We climbed over to it, and found loads of green ants on the trees. I think I will wait for dinner rather than partaking! It was beautiful, but the light was beginning to go, and I didn’t really want to get stuck in the rainforest in the dark so we started back. We went past the “Beach Billabong” – a sandy area where you can swim quite safely. I thought they had crocodiles around here, but apparently not there. There was a table and chair, but no waiter service! I am used to having my campari brought to me at the most unusual places – what has happened? On the way back we found a pair of sunglasses on a tree – the things they can grow out here are amazing! They weren’t Oakleys, so decided to wait until we came past an Oakley tree before picking them!



Dinner was in the Treehouse Restaurant again – the canopy below was all lit up, and with the noise of the rushing water was just magical. Paul had a crocodile cheesecake for starters – bit like a quiche, couldn’t taste the crocodile at all. Not that he knew what crocodile tasted like. They brought out a whole row of patio heaters as the restaurant was open to the elements – the receptionist had said that they were going through a cold snap. I must admit, it was a bit chilly. Maybe I am just getting used to this warmer weather!

Australia Day 17 – Friday 15th June

Another spectacular sunrise from the comfort of our bed. I wish I could wake up to this every morning – but unfortunately this is to be the last one. After breakfast, on to the air boats for the last time. This time we have Al as our guide – he is also the Manager of the property. He has been here six months – and his girlfriend is the Manager of the Southern Palms on Kangaroo Island, another one on my tick list!




I don’t think I would ever tire of this trip – it is always refreshing, always slightly different from the last one, and constantly abundant in birdlife. The whole flood plain is overgrown with grass at the end of the wet season, when Bamarru is closed. When they open in February, they have to cut down tracks that the air boats can go through, although they can travel over reeds and grasses to a certain degree. As the waters recede, the grasses are exposed more to the sun, and are dying off. The open waters are full of lilies and lily pads; blues, whites and pinks. They are beautiful when they are in flower, but so many of them are now dying off as the waters go down. There are whole meadows of huge lily pads and massive heads that are brown and dead. Reminds me of the journey to see the Wizard of Oz through the poppy fields! Al then broke off one of the dead heads, and got out some “nuts” that are edible. They taste like chestnuts. If we break down out here, we won’t go hungry! We then wandered into Kingfisher Café – or KFC for short. This truly does look like a scene from another world. It is so peaceful, so serene and the reflections on the water are like mirrors. The only thing that spoils it is the mossies. I now have several bites, on most parts of my body. They obviously haven’t read the instructions on the insect repellent cans that says they won’t come near you when you have that on! We have our morning tea and cakes, and see one of the White Bellied Sea Eagles – the largest bird of prey in Australia. Magnificent bird – and my pictures come out rather good. I just needed the practice! We also saw another couple of birds of prey – a Brown Falcon and a Whistling Kite. The kite was high up on a tree – and did the biggest projectile poo I have ever seen. Should have been ready with the camera for that one.



On the way back we saw another Jabiru, and I actually got some shots of her (I know it was a her because she had yellow eyes. The male has black eyes) taking off with her wingspan in all its glory. I love this holiday! We also went through a couple of flocks of birds that all took off simultaneously – there must have been a couple of thousand of them altogether. An amazing sight. They were going away from us thankfully – I wouldn’t want to take my chances under that lot. We got back to the lodge, and walked back over the plain. The buffalo were further down, so it was deemed safe again to walk.



After another good lunch it was time to pack up and set off for the journey back to Darwin. We had to share the aircraft this time with three other people – and it turned out to be smaller than the one we came out on! Paul nabbed the front seat again, and four of us were in the back of what seemed smaller than a mini backseat. We wouldn’t fall out if the doors flew off – we were wedged in good and proper. The journey took just over 30 minutes again, and we landed at Darwin Airport with all the big aeroplanes!



The aviation company took us to the Medina Grande Waterfront – our home for one night with a washing machine and tumble dryer. Wrong. We tried to check in, and the hotel was overbooked so we were out. They had moved us to the Mantra Esplanade – a three bedroomed apartment, also with washing machine and tumble drier. It was really nice, and not a great problem. I got them to pay for the taxi in the morning to get to the airport as compensation. As soon as we got in, the cases were emptied and the washing started. Doesn’t seem so much like a holiday now! When we had the first wash on and in the tumble drier, we walked out to Mitchell Street and had fish and chips in the paper. Not quite like the English version – shark and chips! It was a bit different from what we had been used to, but filled a hole. The hotel backs onto Mitchell Street, so is in a really good location. Mitchell Street was buzzing – unlike us that had to go back to the room to do the rest of the washing!

Australia Day 16 – Thursday 14th June

The widescreen TV was already on when the knock came on the door this morning. There wasn’t such a spectacular sunrise this morning – am I getting picky? The buffalo either didn’t bother with us this morning, or had come by when I was asleep and I didn’t hear a thing. Either could have been true. There was still so much wildlife just a few metres from the cabin – hard to put into words what it is like to wake up and see those sights and hear those sounds. Just makes you want to stay in bed and just look and so nothing more. No chance of that if you want breakfast though. After opening my birthday cards – Paul had very carefully transported them from the UK, and thank you so much for all the lovely cards – we set off for breakfast. “No present” he said “But you can choose your own didgereedoo from the shop”.



The air boat ride this morning was very refreshing – when it speeds up it actually gets quite chilly. Not when it slows down though. Again, the birds were everywhere. A few more from yesterday to tick off the list – for those that were ticking lists – including green pygmy geese and the jabiru. There were huge flocks of geese on the plains – hundreds of them that all took off as we got closer. The Magpie Geese are the ones that do all the honking. A few birds of prey soaring high in the sky, but none so close this morning. We stopped to have morning tea at another café this morning – Darter Pond. Looked very much like yesterdays, with the water like glass and showing a perfect picture in the water of the trees above. I could just imagine all the roots being pulled up and the trees walking, just like in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. Spooky. Lovely chocolate cake this morning. Everything here is home made, and it tastes it.



We then made our way back towards the lodge, when we saw one of the other boats had stopped. They had spied a crocodile on the other side of a mud bank. We pulled up but couldn’t get so much of a good view, so those in our boat decided that it would be a good idea to get around the other side of the mud bank. I think Justin was a bit reluctant, but did it anyway. We got a real good view of him sunning himself on the bank, but when we got within a few feet he slid back into the water and effortlessly swum away.



We got back to the lodge, and after a short while lunch was served on the deck again. Another couple of hours to while away, before we got in the safari vehicle with Lauren for a couple of hours tour. We saw more new species of bird – and a tree that fruits strychnine. Might come in handy if you need to get rid of someone in a hurry?? We saw the blue kookaburra and a couple more jabirus – then we went to a large billabong that doesn’t dry out at all in the dry season. Just driving around the edge – we see a croc’s head. We drive so we are quite close, but Paul decides that he wants to walk down to waters edge and get a closer shot. He got out of the vehicle, and started to walk towards the water – and the croc’s head disappears. He scuttles back – and within seconds the head appears again. This happens a few times. I think the croc thinks that Paul is dinner, and as soon as he gets close enough to the edge he will have him. Unfortunately for the croc, Paul gives up and decides the pictures we have already will do!



Back to the lodge for canapés whilst watching the sun go down – delightful! One of the Walton girls saw a wallaby go under her cabin and die – I suppose they have to die somewhere. It was sorted out very quickly – wallaby on the menu for tomorrow then! The one hair dryer that they have here seems to have done the rounds, as no-one seems to know where it is. Al finds it and brings it to the cabin – can’t manage without that hairdryer! Lovely dinner again this evening – but I am getting full to brimming with all this good food, I really need to go back to my porridge and soup!

Australia Day 15 – Wednesday 13th June

We had a wake up call this morning at 7.00am – a chap knocking on the door saying “breakfast”. There are no phones, no TV’s, nothing except the bed and a chair in the room. When I opened my eyes, it was if I was looking at a widescreen TV in front of me – the wetlands and animals were just there, outside the cabin. There was a whole herd of buffalo that decided to move from the back of our cabin to the front – right outside the door. I think we’ll wait for them before attempting breakfast, The wallabies are also hopping right past the cabin – a family of three stop just outside, with the little one suckling from the mother. They are very kind and pose as I venture outside and get a bit closer to take a photograph.




Breakfast is a fairly informal affair, with mostly cold meats and pastries, but a hot bacon and egg tart. Loads of fruit and yoghurt, and freshly made bread for toast. Quite sufficient.



We get on the airboats at around 8.00am for our first trip out. They are only a matter of a couple of hundred yards away from the front decking, but as there are several hundred buffalo between us and them we have to get in the safari vehicles and drive all the way round to get to the water. In the wet season the water comes right up to the lodge, but further into the dry season it almost dries up completely. We are given ear defenders to wear whilst the fan is on full, as it is really noisy.



As we meander downstream, the amount of birds and the different varieties is amazing. No need to do any spotting – they are everywhere. Eagles up in the trees, kingfishers, heron, jesus birds (they walk on water) – we have all been given little booklets in the room if we wanted to tick off all the species we see. Can’t be bothered with that – might have done if they had pictures in there as well, so I could look and see what they looked like.



We drove about for a couple of hours, then we parked up in a forest of trees that looked as though we had arrived at Middle Earth. I expected Bilbo Baggins to appear at any minute. It was billed as “Kingfisher Café”. We then had tea and cakes – well what else in the middle of the Mary River Wetlands? It was so peaceful – only the noise of the birds could be heard. Until Justin got out his didgereedo that is. A very fine specimen – and he made a good noise. Some in our boat could, and some couldn’t. Anyone guess who was the one who couldn’t? I did try several times, but just couldn’t get the hang of it.



We got back to the lodge at around 11.30am – just enough time for a bit of relaxation before lunch was served on the deck, Prawn risotto, and more freshly baked bread. It really was lovely, then came out the home made vanilla gelato. Perfect.



It was a really lazy afternoon, by the pool and in the cabin just animal and bird watching. The afternoon safari left at 4.30pm, and we had Lauren to guide us. We drove out the back of the lodge and looked at some weird tree specimens. There was a weird beetle that drilled a hole in a dying tree, and then cut out a little door around it. The whole tree was full of little doors. We also saw a green ant nest made of leaves and hundreds of the little buggers marching up and down, and getting very angry that they had been disturbed. Lauren offered us some to eat – and promptly ate one herself. Very tangy – citrusy. So I am led to believe – I didn’t partake.



We then parked by a billabong, where there was literally hundreds of wallabies bouncing about. Beer and campari came out – so that may have been an exaggeration of my recollection of how many wallabies there really were. We then got back to camp just before the sun went down – and it was once again beautiful. Why do they have such stunning sunsets here? Every night.



The lodge had had more guests arrive during the day, so we were now at capacity of eighteen. We only had ten for dinner last night, so the table grew a bit longer. The meal was excellent again – steak for main course that must have been almost two inches thick. Diet will start again tomorrow – maybe!

Australia Day 14 – Tuesday 12th June

What a difference to other cruise ships on disembarkation day. Everything is really calm, nobody is hustling you to get out, and everything was available normally. Except that the breakfast was in the main restaurant and not up on deck – the outdoor café has been turned into a “hard hat” area where all the cases are being taken and the crane taking them onto the dock. This all happens whilst we are peacefully having our breakfast.




We are doing our own thing once we get off – there are several transfers to various hotels, but as we are catching a plane at 3.00pm we can leave our luggage in a secure area here and just have a leisurely stroll around Darwin. After saying goodbye to all the staff – and the captain is at the bottom of the gangway – we are given our DVD by Anya and then stroll along the waterfront for the ten minute walk up into the main esplanade area. It is absolutely pristine and beautiful. The grass is all cut neatly, and the flowers are lovely. There is a promenade walkway about 100 metres above the sea along the front, which is beautiful. Paul spies a public loo – a stainless steel box type thing. When he works out how to get in (an aboriginal homeless person tells him which button to press) a man tells you that you have ten minutes, and music plays. A bit different to our smelly loos back home!



We find a Mcdonalds and use their free wifi to catch up on emails etc whilst having a latte. Then we just wander around – it is a very compact town. We bumped into several other people off the ship doing the same thing – most people have got afternoon flights to various places around Australia. We walked down to the seafront and took some more pictures of birds (!) and then headed back the way we had come, but down Mitchell Street, one of the main streets through the city. We sat under the shade of a huge tree next to the Parliament building, before walking to the taxi rank in Knuckey Street. We bumped into one of the bar lads from the ship, so he shared our taxi back to the ship, where we picked up our luggage, and then headed for the AV8

Aviation Building on the outskirts of the airport. It is only a small plane – the check in building is a bit bigger than Paul’s new shed! “ Mr & Mrs Keevil” the chap says. How did he know that – I am impressed. Perhaps we look English? No – we are the only people going. Must be a really small plane then! Was that a gulp I heard from Paul? We are leaving the main suitcases here – hope that I have packed what I need for the next three nights. Don’t think there are any nearby shops if I haven’t. Paul had forgotten to put his tee shirts in, so a bit of packing and repacking had to be done.



We have a small delay here – the aircraft we were supposed to have has got a fault. Better to find out now I suppose. We are about 45 minutes late taking off. Brenton, the pilot, looks more like a cattle rancher than a pilot. He also takes our cases out to the plane – can’t see the captain’s of jumbo jets doing that! We walk out of the little aviation building, and through a gate onto the runway. There is a tiny, tiny plane at the end with the back door open – “that’s ours” I thought. Yep – it was. I can only imagine what was going through Paul’s mind at that time – probably trying to think of an excuse to stay in Darwin for the next three nights! But, give him his dues, he doesn’t hesitate. He asks if he can sit up front with the pilot, which is no problem. I have the back all to myself – although it isn’t any bigger than the back seat of a car. We are both given earphones – we can hear all that the pilot can hear from Darwin Air Control. Just as we are taxiing onto the runway, a couple of planes ahead of us, it comes across that take offs have been halted as a bird has been hit, and the carcass has to be retrieved. Didn’t take long for that to happen, so we were on our way. The planes ahead of us were somewhat bigger, and turned left to go to the end of the runway. We just turned right and off we went. Paul is actually quite chatty with the pilot – I told him it was mind over matter, and he obviously has got his mind over the matter!



We flew up and over the Adelaide River – and were told that at low tide from up here the shapes of crocodiles can be seen. It was high tide so we couldn’t see any today. The whole journey only took just about half an hour, and it was a really pleasant one. The pilot got out his ipad, and said he had downloaded an app that showed the area where we were flying, and even had a picture of the plane on – just like you get on the tv map on normal flights. We landed on a short gravel airstrip in what looked like the middle of nowhere – over herds of buffalo and thousands of birds. The white Bamurru vehicle with Al as the driver was there to meet us. As we were late, there was another couple of guests flying in from a day in Kakadu National Park, so he said we would just go for a drive and wait for their plane to land. In the short journey we had, we saw so many birds of prey, flocks of magpie geese, bee eaters – and they are only the names that I can remember. The whole area is just alive with wildlife. We went down to the Mary River, and on a little jetty there had a look out, and saw a couple of what looked like mud skippers swimming in the water. My photography is getting better – I actually got them in the picture.



We saw a plane coming in overhead, so went to pick up an American couple and we all took the twenty minute trip to Bamurru Plains. This is an eco lodge, that has solar power, and everything is done with as little harm to the environment as possible. We had a drink and cold towels, and were then shown to our “room”. Three of the sides has nothing but mesh, and looks over onto the wetlands – full of buffalo, birds, wallabies and god knows what else. The sun was on its way down, and what a sight! This is the view that costs all the money!



The shower is wound around a tree, and there is a branch to hang your towel on. The bed looks out to the wetlands, and there is a fan overhead if needed. No door locks – only nine of these cabins here. There are wind up torches that you need to take to the main lodge at night – just in case there is buffalo in your path. What do you do with your torch – shine the light in their eyes or hit them on the head with it? Hopefully I will not have to find out! We shower and change – no hairdryers in the room, but I read that they did have one to borrow so I got that. Can’t live without a hairdryer! The shower was surprisingly good – really hot and very powerful. The only thing is you can hear things walking about outside – and they all sound really big!



We walked to the main lodge for canapés on the deck to watch the last of the sun going down. See – it is civilised! They have actually lit a fire out here – I suppose it is their winter. We have put plenty of bug spray on, but there is still quite a few mossies flying around at this time of night so I got a bit nearer the fire. I will burn them off! Dinner is ready – there is a total of ten guests and Justin, the guide, eating tonight. It is a fantastic meal – there is an open bar, and would you believe that in the middle of the Australian outback they have campari! Ha! The three course meal was worthy of any high class restaurant – deep fried mud crab and prawn fishcake with salad, duck, and then a crumble and ice cream all very well presented. There is an American family also with two teenage girls – I would not be surprised if their surname was Walton and John Boy and Jim Bob are round the corner!



After a really lovely evening, we wind up our torches and make our way back to the third cabin on the right. It is now pitch dark, the stars are so bright the Southern Cross can be seen clearly as well as millions of others. You can also see the milky way if you look hard enough. Why is it that the stars here are so different to ours? I am sure Paul could tell me if I gave him a few hours! Just as we reach our cabin, there is a loud rustling just to the right of the path. That made us get a move on! No idea what it was – but I bet it was big!

Australia Day 13 – Monday 11th June

Another day at sea, so another leisurely start. Today was the first day that there had been clouds in the sky – it has been clear blue up to now. It wasn’t the nasty grey ones though, more like the fluffy white. Paul was still not feeling completely at ease, so had just a light breakfast. The first lecture this morning was with Mick entitled “Captain Courageous” and was about the sinking of the SS Koolama in 1942. Paul decided to sit this one out – maybe a good idea! It was very interesting though – as the ship actually still sits in the dock area in Wyndham, where we had been yesterday. It was sunk by the Japanese, and the story revolved around the Captain, Jack Eggleston. There was one picture in the presentation with our Captain and an elderly lady by the commemoration plaque in Calamity Cove, where most of the passengers were evacuated to. It turns out that this lady was the daughter of Captain Jack Eggleston, and so the Orion made a detour to stop off in Calamity Cove as she had not been there. The rescue of these people was down in no small part to two aboriginal runners, that alerted the authorities in Darwin where the ship was. They ran over 120 kilometres over the Kimberley land in two days, which is amazing. I remember that the driver we had in Wyndham had said that his grandfather was one of the two runners that rescued passengers of the ship – now I know what a grand feat it was.




It was a bit of frivolity after that – we had the “Orion Cup” horse race. We had initially five “horses” – Clothes Horse (Ricky the waiter), Manila Maiden (Cat from reception) One Hung Low (Harry) and Too Phar Gone (Brad). Heinkickin (Anja) was disqualified after a blood test proved too many cocktails in the sample!



The horses had to be auctioned first – there was no shortage of people who paid up to $150 for each horse. Then we could put a $10 bet on which horse we thought would win. Each horse was allocated either a heart, diamond, club or spade, and then the cards were drawn. The first one to 13 was the winner – and it was mine. I won $30. Paul still hadn’t ventured indoors – he felt it was safer on deck. He also missed out on the champagne that flowed to celebrate all the winners!



After lunch, we had another lecture entitled “Why aren’t there Monkeys in Australia” which was a really interesting biography on Charles Darwin and Alfred Russel Wallace, who I had never heard of. It was he that discovered and recorded many of the species that had been attributed to Darwin. Both of them British, and Wallace being a descendant of William Wallace of Scotland. Fancy coming to Australia to learn about your own history!



Then, crepes suzette on the deck. How can you resist? They were delicious.



We had a final recap in the Leda Lounge this evening on the whole cruise – it has gone so quickly. It seems only yesterday that we were being welcomed on board with champagne. We had a compilation of photos from every day of the trip – all put to music – and the bonus is that we will all be given one when we leave the ship tomorrow. Perhaps I can pass some of those wildlife shots as my own? Maybe not! Dinner was again exquisite – maybe we will have to go to Serge’s restaurant in Sydney to see how it compares! Back to the packing, one bag to leave in Darwin and one bag to take for three nights to Bamarru. See how that goes then!

Australia Day 12 – Sunday 10th June

Today is the first of two days at sea. For reasons of a political nature, since 2010 Orion has to clear immigration internationally. This means that the nearest place to do this is Com in East Timor, but means a day travelling to there and a day travelling back. Should be some good R & R though!




No slacking to start with – the first lecture of the day is at 9.30am with Mick, which is on the history of Australia called “Footprints on a Forgotten Land”. As most of the guests are Australian, I was surprised at how many were in the theatre – it was virtually full. It may be the way that Mick presents as well, as he is so knowledgeable, needs no notes, and very slick in his delivery. And I learnt some history that I was unaware of – I thought it was Great Britain that found Australia and colonised it. The Spanish and the Portuguese and the Dutch had all been there before us – but never actually laid claim to it. It was only when James Cook landed, he claimed it as part of the British Colonies. We didn’t come out of it as such baddies as I thought we would!



After a short spell on the sunbed with the kindle, the Bridge was opened up for an hour for all who wanted to visit. The Captain was at the helm, and he actually entertained everyone for nearly two hours with his stories and explanations of how things worked. This was a really informal chat, with stories of breaking ice, near misses and polar bears. What a lovely man he is – no standing on ceremony, no feeling of grandeur, just a good natured, normal gentleman. He had everyone hanging on his every word.



After lunch, there were various activities throughout the afternoon, but I passed as this was really the first day that we have been able to unwind. And doesn’t doing nothing make you tired!



There was one more lecture in the afternoon that I went to – Paul elected to give it a miss. Again, it was really interesting. It was about the history of East Timor – the place that we are going to get to at 3.00am tomorrow morning. By the way, we will only be docking for an hour – just enough time to get the paperwork done. Anyone that wants to get off can do – but most certainly wasn’t encouraged to do so. You are only allowed on the jetty, if you go off your shoes have to be sanitised before getting back on board, and they really did their best to make you not put your name on the sign up sheet. I don’t think anyone is going to bother. Harry put together a presentation called “East Timor; The Declassified Truth” and it was quite shocking. I can remember an event ten years or so back when East Timor hit the news in the UK, but couldn’t really remember what for.



It has had a very violent past, and really hasn’t had any time of stability. Between the Indonesians, the Portuguese, the Military and the Police there has been war and killings for the past 300 years or so. Even as recent as ten years ago, there was a genocide where a third of the population were killed. A third of the population have been driven over the border into West Timor, which leaves just a third of the people there should be – 50% of them under fifteen. They had elections in April 2012, and so hopefully the new president will help to educate the young people to allow them to become self sufficient. They are a fairly rich nation because of oil and gas income, but have no core of skilled people to get the country on its feet. A very sad story.



The ship is certainly swaying a lot more on the open seas – I actually had to lean against the wall in the shower to wash my hair, otherwise I would have toppled over. Walking down the corridor in a straight line is not an option – must be better for you to travel twice as far to get to the same place! Paul is now regretting deciding to come with me I think – he is not a good traveller. Oh well – he can’t get off! He had one course only for dinner – that won’t do him any harm. I didn’t – I had it all. Will take more than that to put me off my food!

Australia Day 11 - Saturday 9th June

Today started rather sedately with breakfast a la carte in the restaurant. We were the only two in there – everybody else had had theirs up on deck, but we were too late as it finished at 9.00am, and now it was 9.15am. Not a problem – nothing is a problem on this ship.




We boarded the bus at 10.00am to drive to Kununurra, where we were going to pick up our scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. We had a choice here today – either a flight or a cruise up the River Ord . Both looked unmissable, but we had to choose one, so the Bungle Bungles it was. The bus driver had verbal diarrhoea. He knew everything about everything, and continued for nearly an hour telling us all about the route we were travelling on. Stories like how they used to get camel trains to take supplies to the men who were working the mines. The camel trains were owned by muslims, who would not transport anything pig. The miners liked their tinned pork, and were not happy when they didn’t get it. So, all the labels were taken off, and relabelled tinned cheese. This was no problem – until one day one load fell off, some of the tins split open, and then all hell broke loose. The place where that happened is now called Tinned Cheese Creek. How do you know when you’re being led up the garden path??



We were given a packed lunch bag when leaving the ship. When we arrived in Kununurra, we went to a place called Celebrity Tree Park to eat our lunch. Several celebrities, when visiting the town, were asked to plant trees here, and each one has a plaque to say what it is, when it was planted and who planted it. Australian celebrities I think – didn’t recognise any of the names of the few that I looked at. We had to eat quickly – it seemed like we had only just finished breakfast. Oh yes – so we had! Most of it went back in the bag. What a waste.



We then drove the five minutes to the airport. As we went in we were all weighed – didn’t like to look at this stage of the cruise! This was to allocate the correct weight in each aircraft. We were called, and had to follow our pilot onto the runway, and go through a quick safety check. Not quite like BA first class! We boarded our twelve seater aircraft – I had already decided that the back seats looked the best to take pictures from, as it didn’t have the wing obstructing it. Paul pointed out that he had never been on a plane as small as this – I pointed out that it had only got one engine so our travel insurance probably wouldn’t cover us if there was an accident. It was a Cessner Caravan – I am reading a book at the moment that is about a cessner. I pointed out to Paul that, as I had discovered from this book, that it sits very low at the tail so the pilot can’t see out of the windscreen until he is airborne. I said he would have to weave out to the runway, so that he could see if there was anything in his way out of the side windows. I think this might have been where it all started to go wrong.



We whizzed down the runway, and there were birds just sitting at the side watching us take off. Better than being in the way I suppose. We got airborne, and after a few wobbles and dips and dives the camera got some good shots. I then noticed Paul wasn’t taking any photographs. I asked why this was – “I am not happy”. He spent most of the flight hanging on to the steps that had been tucked in just in front of him, and pouring water over his head, as the pilot had suggested if you feel queasy. Oh dear – he should have chosen the river cruise!



It was a fantastic experience. We were up in the air over two hours (the longest two hours of my life, from you know who!) and it was so good. We started off from Kununurra, and flew south over the Kununurra Diversion Dam that helps irrigation in the area. We flew over Lake Argyle, which is approximately 27 times the size of Sydney Harbour. There is over ninety islands in the lake – some looking like countries like New Zealand and Italy. We then flew over the Bow River diamond mine, which is now shut. We flew over a couple of “small” cattle stations – around 400,000 acres each. The biggest ones in the Kimberly are over one billion acres.

Wouldn’t like to rustle cattle up on them! Apparently, because of the terrain, they are herded by four wheel drives or even helicopters. Not like Hugh Jackman in “Australia” which was filmed in and around here, who did it on horseback.



We then flew on to the Purnululu National Park, which houses the Bungle Bungles, a spectacular landform of striking beehive dome-shaped sandstone towers and breathtaking gorges. It was formed some 360 million years ago, but only discovered and named in 1983. The most striking are those in the south, where the weather has eroded more of the “topping” so that the distinctive tiger striped rocks are on the outside. It has always had cultural significance to the aboriginals, but before it was discovered it was “only a heap of rocks that you flew over to get to Halls Creek”. The pilot very kindly kept banking steeply to the left, and then steeply to the right so that both sides could get good pictures. I kept feeling a flick of water every now and then. I was really thirsty, but didn’t feel able to ask for a sip! I felt it had a more immediate necessary use.



We then flew over the Argyle Diamond Mine on the way back to Wyndham Airport. Amazingly, this is the biggest diamond mine in the world. I thought they were in South Africa? They produce over thirty million carats every year, and about one quarter of the world’s natural diamond production. Perhaps we should drop in for some samples! It is the primary source of the rare pink diamond. They are shipped to Perth, where they are prepared for international sale by Rio Tinto Diamonds – the majority are exported to India. On the way back from here, we could see several forest fires below – it is very hot and very dry and the moment.



“Ten minutes to landing” says the pilot. “Thank god for that” says Paul. I somehow think today hasn’t been his favourite. As we bank round to land at the airstrip, there is a little kangaroo on the grass at the side just watching us go past. How bizarre. Everyone gets off the plane and says what a wonderful flight it was. Paul needs a couple more minutes to get some colour back in his cheeks!



The other two planes come in to land behind us – and one person had been sick on her flight. Well done Paul for feeling bad, but not making all the others in the plane feel worse!



It is only a short trip back to the ship. There is a shuttle going up to the Five Rivers Lookout Point, so I decide to hop on and get a few more photographs. Paul went to lie down in a darkened room. We had an aboriginal driver that took us up there, and was full of stories about the area. He told us how the producer of “Australia” had met with the aboriginals and asked to film on their land. They were welcomed in, as they were working with the aboriginals, and he had stories about meeting Hugh Jackman and Nicole Kidman. Hmm… He was very entertaining though. The lookout point was nice, but after what we had just seen was definitely a “couple of photos and go” place. The sun was going down, and the ship was meant to have sailed fifteen minutes ago. Whoops!



Not a problem – what did I say? Nothing is a problem. They waited for us, and I took a few more shots of a bird or two along the dock. I like taking birds. Paul came to find me – he thought the ship was sailing without me. No such luck!! We had a couple of glasses of wine on the deck, and chatted whilst we were sailing out and darkness came.



We were invited on a table of twelve for dinner on the deck tonight – they can seat around thirty people out there and anyone can book. It was a most entertaining table – stories that perhaps will not go in the blog! After dinner, the crew gave their own show. It was really entertaining, especially as we have got to know many of the crew on first name terms. They may not make Las Vegas, but charisma and enthusiasm they certainly do have. From magic shows to John Travolta’s Stayin Alive to In the Navy and Frank Sinatra, they kept us mesmorised for an hour or so. What a day!

Australia Day 10 – Friday 8th June

We had an early morning call at 5.50am this morning – it is getting worse! We were due in the zodiacs this morning a 6.30am – but a full breakfast was waiting for us on deck if we needed it. Not enough time – although some did. We are going to climb the King George Falls this morning. It is a fairly hard climb – 80 metres up, in about 160 metres, so one to one. We had to choose yesterday whether we wanted to do the hike to the falls, and surprisingly 32 of the guests had signed up for this mornings hike. I honestly thought that it would have a maximum of around ten guests. But, so I thought, at least I wouldn’t be the slowest!




The zodiac journey over the falls was about an hour. We saw an osprey high up on the top of the rocks, and a heron on the side near the bank. As we moved into the mouth of the river, the gorge soared high above us on both sides. The sun was shining down on the sandstone, and made it look alive. When the six boats got to the end of the river, there were two dead end gorges, each having a waterfall flowing from top to bottom. There was another ship, the True North, that had passed us along the way and was already at the falls. This is a very sleek yacht with a helicopter on the back. The zodiacs pulled up at what looked like a load of rubble, and we all got off. Oh my god! As I looked up, I could see that it was as hard as they had made out. Rather by luck than judgement, Lubo, the Chief Engineer, was in our zodiac. He hopped out, and was with me all the way with that magnificent grip pulling me from one rock to another. Paul was helping also – and yes, you have guessed it – I was the slowest one. There was one gentleman of 78 years old that was at the top before me! It was single file, and no overtaking, but I don’t think that would have made any difference. If I hadn’t had help, and lots of it, I would have really struggled to get to the top. Some of the boulders were four feet tall – some sturdy, some wobbly, some smooth, some sharp. I was very glad when I reached the top. Until I realised that I had to get down again. Oh well, enjoy the view in the meantime. No point worrying about that until it is imminent!



The flat plateau at the top was filled with little rivers and waterfalls and water holes for swimming. It was delightful. We walked all along one side, and crossed the top where the rivers come to meet at the waterfall. I don’t know where all the water was coming from that was gushing down the side of the gorge – there was no fast flowing river up here, only a gentle stream. We walked along the edge, and could look back at the waterfalls – Mick had climbed down about twenty feet and was taking pictures from a very weird angle. There was a beautiful rainbow in the spray of the water – I bet he knows that that is the best spot to get the full colours of the rainbow. Mine will look very wishy washy – I expect to see a full rainbow in glorious technicolor in the photo recap of the day tonight!



We had around an hour and a half up there – Paul went for a swim in the water hole, but I had not brought my swimming things, so just sat on a rock and surveyed the whole area. Beautiful. The helicopter from “True North” came and landed a couple of times bringing people from the boat to the top of the falls. Bet it doesn’t make them as grateful to be there getting a lift like that! We had a group photograph taken at the top – I will sit and study that when I get home – and it will hopefully encourage me to lose weight and go to the gym when I look at all the old people that showed me up!



Now I need to worry – time to go back down! Going down, we were ably informed, is much harder than going up. Great. Is that helicopter still there? Do you think they take American Express? No – swallow hard and onwards. A great guy called John led the way of our party – he was very good at finding a good route down. Paul followed, and helped balance me no end – Max was behind, so between them I should be safe! I apologised to all the older people I was holding up – but none of them seemed to mind. What lovely people! It took longer getting down that going up – and it was really hard on the knees. I used my bottom a great deal! Boy, was I glad when the river level was the same level as me. Safe and sound – no slips, no cuts, no bruises. Easy peasy!



We got back in the zodiacs, hot sweaty and tired. We turned in the direction of the falls to go and get a better look. In a hidden corner just by the falls was the Orion flag and umbrella on a zodiac – serving Mimosas and ham and cheese croissants. How do they get it so right? It was perfect. The champagne flowed – it felt rather surreal drinking and eating in a zodiac underneath a waterfall. A couple of tenders from another boat, the “Discovery One” came over and started taking photographs. Their tour obviously doesn’t have the “extras”! They did look rather envious.



“OK” said Mick in the next zodiac. “Pass everything over here that you don’t want to get wet – you’re going under the falls!”. Hmm – camera bag went over, as did the life jackets. Why are we sending the life jackets over, I thought. Then I remembered that they were the sort that self inflated when they got wet. Perhaps we were going to get a little more than a spray? Better take shoes and socks off then. Paul took off his tee shirt – but as I had only got normal clothes with me, they all had to stay on. I did pass over my hat and sunglasses, just to be on the safe side. And I am glad I did. We passed not behind the falls, not just in front of the falls, but right underneath them. The force of the water on my head was like a quadruple power shower. Then we backed out – phew. No – let’s go back in again shall we? No choice. In we went again. My god – did I sign up for this? Thank god I sent as much as I did in the other boat – it would have been swimming in this one. There was about four inches of water in the bottom of the boat. We weren’t special – all of the boats got the same treatment. Some more than others. Mick was a little sadistic with his lot – they went under about four times! Oh well, I have seen the falls from all angles now.



We set off back to the ship after that, and it didn’t take long for the top half to dry off. The shorts and underwear were ringing wet all the way home. Not sure where all the water in the boat went though – after we set off it all disappeared. Perhaps there is some sort of one way valve that lets water out but not back in? Whatever, we didn’t sink. Thankfully! We saw a cormorant on the way home that had dived into the water for it’s lunch and now sat on a rock. It apparently cannot fly when it has wet wings, so has to wait for them to dry off before it can go anywhere. Hope there’s not a crocodile round the corner!



The wind had got up a bit then, and the way back was a bit choppy. Not a real problem though – it had been an exhilarating morning. And lunch was in full swing when we got back. Just needed to get out of those wet clothes though! I was even thanked when I got back on board for leading a very slow and safe procession from the top to the bottom – at least they weren’t cross!



An afternoon of leisure – what a treat. A sunbed and a kindle, and I am only on my second book. What on earth is going on?? Tonight there was an Aussie barbeque on deck – a whole suckling pig, huge prawns on skewers, barramundi, veal etc etc. The wind had got up, so the boat was pitching a bit, but after a few glasses of wine I don’t think anyone noticed. We then had a rendition of “Waltzing Matilda” by the Manila Male Voice Choir – aka the restaurant waiters. Surreal!

Australia Day 9 – Thursday 7th June

A comparative lie in this morning – our zodiac out to Jar Island didn’t leave until 9.45am. We had anchored in Vansittart Bay, which is quite close to Truscott Air Base, which was operational during the Second World War. There was quite a breeze this morning, so it made our transfer a little bumpy – and not only were my boots hanging precariously over the sea, they were getting full of spray from the boat. Paul’s were fine inside his back pack! We arrived on the beach, changed into our boots and made out way up across some fantastic rock formations. The main reason for coming to Jar Island is the Rock Art. Here, it is in a different style from the Wandjina that we had already seen. The first “gallery” we came to was relatively easy to get to. Some of us went up to the second “gallery”, which was a little harder. You needed to be a little bit flexible to squeeze through rocks, climb up, duck under and scramble around. The cave at the top was full of art. The figures were more stick like, and harder to see on the rock. Unlike the Wandjina that repaint the lines, these are thought to have been there for thousands of years, untouched. The style of art is called Gwion Gwion, after a bird that the aboriginal people thought created the art, or Bradshaw Art, after Joseph Bradshaw that was the first European person to record it in 1891.




There are several different types of art, from stick figures to figures with adornments on their arms and heads, and animals and scenes that could be battle scenes. Because none of them have been repainted, it is very hard to date them. The best guess has come from a chap called Graham Walsh who discovered a Bradshaw Painting covered by a fossilized wasp nest. Scientists removed the nest, and by a carbon dating method discovered it to be over 17,000 years old. That was the nest – the painting was obviously older than that, but as there is no pigment left on the rock surface from the whatever made the painting it is impossible to do. I can imagine sitting up in the rocks doing paintings. It is away from either the searing heat of the sun, or the deluge of the monsoon. It is so peaceful up there (apart from when a boat load of people descend on it). I bet the reasons the aboriginals painted were not so different as to why people paint today!



We then went down from the second gallery, and took a detour on the way back to the beach to a third spot. This had only been found a few months ago, as was a small cave system. Some of the best pictures were taken whilst laying on one’s back – until I saw how many ants were running around down there! What I had, I had. What I didn’t, I wasn’t going to get! Another gloriously sunny day, not a cloud in the sky. How used to this weather can you get? The walk back to the beach and then into the zodiacs took us nicely back to the boat in time for a lecture by Mick Fogg on “Stories in Stone”. This explained, as much as they know, as to how the art came to be. There is still so much to be found out there – new research was stopped at the end of the last century as it appeared that some of it was deemed racially against the aboriginal people and became a bit sensitive. The government stopped giving grants, and so research stopped. A couple of years ago a new initiative in the Kimberley has given funding to a university, and so hopefully more of this art will be found, and maybe some answers to so far unanswered questions will be sought.



Enough of all that intellectual stuff – lunch is ready! On the way out of the lecture theatre I looked at the fantastic wildlife photographs that are framed on the walls – all taken by Mick Fogg, our expedition leader! Wow, what talent that man has! Not having much connection to the internet (the $30 for an hour doesn’t go far when it takes fifteen minutes to upload a picture!) I really miss google. I could be looking up all sorts of things that we have seen and done, but will have to wait until we get back on inhabited dry land and find a McDonalds with a free wifi connection. I have had no phone signal either – like going back to the good old days!



Lunch was good out on the deck, and in the meantime we were repositioning a few miles for this afternoons trip. On the zodiacs again, this time to go to the crash site of an old C-53 transport aircraft. After landing on the beach, we headed up the sand dunes and across some bush. When we got to the top, we could see a lake like shape of mud, with a few rocks sticking up. “It’s quicker to go straight across than go round” says Max – “It’s not that muddy”. It actually wasn’t. I imagined it to be like the mud you get in England, where you can actually get your boots sucked into it and the mud comes up over the top. But this was quite firm. There was a small film of water over the top, but the mud underneath held our weight, and we didn’t sink at all. Once we were in a few metres, we could see hundreds of holes, and bright pink and blue crabs were scuttling about all over – as soon as we got near they shot down their holes. Got a few pictures of one or two though! When we got to the other side, a few more yards and the plane came into view.



Apparently, the plane was on course from Brisbane to Broome, but missed by several hundred miles. As it came back to find Broome, there was not enough fuel on board so they had to look for somewhere to land. They saw the mud flats, and decided to land there. The trees and scrubs took out a wing, caught the engine on fire, but all crew landed without injury. It took a few days for them to be found, but they were rescued eventually. The plane has been there ever since, and is still in the same state as it was when it landed. After a fairly good look round, we made our way back across the mud flats again, and over the sand dunes. Back to the little umbrella, and cold pineapple juice! This is the sort of expedition I like! The beach here was beautiful, it went for miles both ways, and the rocks made it so interesting. My pictures, I am sure, are not going to do these places any justice – they never do!



We got back on the zodiacs – and this time Paul’s boots were hanging over the edge of the sea and mine were safely tucked away inside. Result! Afternoon tea awaited us on our return – just had to have a little, it would be rude not to!



When we went to the Leda Lounge for our photographic recap of the day, I realised that the mud plains had, in fact, been full of water when the first couple of groups went over. I thought they were empty all the time! Not only that, the tide had covered around 50 metres of beach from one trip to another. The difference in the water levels wherever we have been in incredible. We had dinner this evening with a couple of guys that have joined the ship because their company is thinking of chartering it for a few tours. They are American, and their company puts together tours for the National Geographic. Hmm – think there might be a plan coming together…. Had six courses tonight, so plenty of time to think about it!