Australia Day 9 – Thursday 7th June

A comparative lie in this morning – our zodiac out to Jar Island didn’t leave until 9.45am. We had anchored in Vansittart Bay, which is quite close to Truscott Air Base, which was operational during the Second World War. There was quite a breeze this morning, so it made our transfer a little bumpy – and not only were my boots hanging precariously over the sea, they were getting full of spray from the boat. Paul’s were fine inside his back pack! We arrived on the beach, changed into our boots and made out way up across some fantastic rock formations. The main reason for coming to Jar Island is the Rock Art. Here, it is in a different style from the Wandjina that we had already seen. The first “gallery” we came to was relatively easy to get to. Some of us went up to the second “gallery”, which was a little harder. You needed to be a little bit flexible to squeeze through rocks, climb up, duck under and scramble around. The cave at the top was full of art. The figures were more stick like, and harder to see on the rock. Unlike the Wandjina that repaint the lines, these are thought to have been there for thousands of years, untouched. The style of art is called Gwion Gwion, after a bird that the aboriginal people thought created the art, or Bradshaw Art, after Joseph Bradshaw that was the first European person to record it in 1891.




There are several different types of art, from stick figures to figures with adornments on their arms and heads, and animals and scenes that could be battle scenes. Because none of them have been repainted, it is very hard to date them. The best guess has come from a chap called Graham Walsh who discovered a Bradshaw Painting covered by a fossilized wasp nest. Scientists removed the nest, and by a carbon dating method discovered it to be over 17,000 years old. That was the nest – the painting was obviously older than that, but as there is no pigment left on the rock surface from the whatever made the painting it is impossible to do. I can imagine sitting up in the rocks doing paintings. It is away from either the searing heat of the sun, or the deluge of the monsoon. It is so peaceful up there (apart from when a boat load of people descend on it). I bet the reasons the aboriginals painted were not so different as to why people paint today!



We then went down from the second gallery, and took a detour on the way back to the beach to a third spot. This had only been found a few months ago, as was a small cave system. Some of the best pictures were taken whilst laying on one’s back – until I saw how many ants were running around down there! What I had, I had. What I didn’t, I wasn’t going to get! Another gloriously sunny day, not a cloud in the sky. How used to this weather can you get? The walk back to the beach and then into the zodiacs took us nicely back to the boat in time for a lecture by Mick Fogg on “Stories in Stone”. This explained, as much as they know, as to how the art came to be. There is still so much to be found out there – new research was stopped at the end of the last century as it appeared that some of it was deemed racially against the aboriginal people and became a bit sensitive. The government stopped giving grants, and so research stopped. A couple of years ago a new initiative in the Kimberley has given funding to a university, and so hopefully more of this art will be found, and maybe some answers to so far unanswered questions will be sought.



Enough of all that intellectual stuff – lunch is ready! On the way out of the lecture theatre I looked at the fantastic wildlife photographs that are framed on the walls – all taken by Mick Fogg, our expedition leader! Wow, what talent that man has! Not having much connection to the internet (the $30 for an hour doesn’t go far when it takes fifteen minutes to upload a picture!) I really miss google. I could be looking up all sorts of things that we have seen and done, but will have to wait until we get back on inhabited dry land and find a McDonalds with a free wifi connection. I have had no phone signal either – like going back to the good old days!



Lunch was good out on the deck, and in the meantime we were repositioning a few miles for this afternoons trip. On the zodiacs again, this time to go to the crash site of an old C-53 transport aircraft. After landing on the beach, we headed up the sand dunes and across some bush. When we got to the top, we could see a lake like shape of mud, with a few rocks sticking up. “It’s quicker to go straight across than go round” says Max – “It’s not that muddy”. It actually wasn’t. I imagined it to be like the mud you get in England, where you can actually get your boots sucked into it and the mud comes up over the top. But this was quite firm. There was a small film of water over the top, but the mud underneath held our weight, and we didn’t sink at all. Once we were in a few metres, we could see hundreds of holes, and bright pink and blue crabs were scuttling about all over – as soon as we got near they shot down their holes. Got a few pictures of one or two though! When we got to the other side, a few more yards and the plane came into view.



Apparently, the plane was on course from Brisbane to Broome, but missed by several hundred miles. As it came back to find Broome, there was not enough fuel on board so they had to look for somewhere to land. They saw the mud flats, and decided to land there. The trees and scrubs took out a wing, caught the engine on fire, but all crew landed without injury. It took a few days for them to be found, but they were rescued eventually. The plane has been there ever since, and is still in the same state as it was when it landed. After a fairly good look round, we made our way back across the mud flats again, and over the sand dunes. Back to the little umbrella, and cold pineapple juice! This is the sort of expedition I like! The beach here was beautiful, it went for miles both ways, and the rocks made it so interesting. My pictures, I am sure, are not going to do these places any justice – they never do!



We got back on the zodiacs – and this time Paul’s boots were hanging over the edge of the sea and mine were safely tucked away inside. Result! Afternoon tea awaited us on our return – just had to have a little, it would be rude not to!



When we went to the Leda Lounge for our photographic recap of the day, I realised that the mud plains had, in fact, been full of water when the first couple of groups went over. I thought they were empty all the time! Not only that, the tide had covered around 50 metres of beach from one trip to another. The difference in the water levels wherever we have been in incredible. We had dinner this evening with a couple of guys that have joined the ship because their company is thinking of chartering it for a few tours. They are American, and their company puts together tours for the National Geographic. Hmm – think there might be a plan coming together…. Had six courses tonight, so plenty of time to think about it!

Australia Day 8 – Wednesday 6th June

We had another early morning call at 6.00am to leave on the early zodiacs. It had been quite rough at some point during the night – I could remember the ship seemed to be going up and down rather a lot – didn’t keep me awake so it might have been a dream! Paul said he felt it too, so it wasn’t a dream. This is rather a small vessel, so I am sure it doesn’t take much to make it bounce around. We were warned it could be chilly at this time of the morning, but to us it was like a summer’s day! We left Orion for a trip up the Hunter River, and then into Porosus Creek. As we left the ship, the tide was coming in to the river, and the wind was blowing the opposite way, which made it a bit choppy. That didn’t last long though, it soon calmed down. We had Max as a guide again today, and he soon spotted feet tracks on a sandy bank, which meant a crocodile had not long passed that way.




We soon spied a small one on the bank – although to me it looked just like a rock. The tide was coming in really quickly, so within a few minutes the water was up to the “rock” and it swum away. We just moved a few hundred yards around the corner, and then spied a larger one just swimming in the rocks. It was not in a hurry to move, so we were able to track it for quite a long time. We were hoping that it was going to climb up onto the beach, but it had other ideas, and swum into the rocks. As we turned left into Porosus Creek, so named after the Crocodylus porosus, we hoped for lots more crocodiles. Instead, we found the skies to be the best place to point the camera. We saw osprey, and sea eagles, and wedge eagles all soaring gracefully above our heads. I even got a few pictures that were just about in focus! Hurrah! As we turned off the engine and just floated on the creek, it was so peaceful. The birds were singing, but because of all the mangroves either side not one of them could be seen. Paul then spotted another crocodile – he has got a name for himself, as we are known as the crocodile spotters, and “we want them in our boat!”. It went under as soon as he saw us, and never surfaced again. Obviously the chap that named the creek had a lot more luck at seeing them than we did. Just as we were on our way back, we spotted a nest in the trees. It was a brahmany kite nest, and there were two birds in it. One in the nest, and one perched just above it. The one in the nest sat very happily as we snapped away at it – the other spread its wings and flew right into the sun, so I didn’t get a chance to take its photograph. Never mind – I got a few good ones when it was in the tree. Time to go back, and we headed full speed out of the creek.



Just as we rounded the corner to get into Hunter River, we spied another zodiac with the umbrella and flag. We pulled up, and Gabor was serving cornettos. How much more bizarre can this get? Gabor is the Hungarian Maitre d’ – and is most charismatic and hard working maitre d’ I have ever come across. Who else would park up a zodiac with a freezer box for a few dozen guests whizzing by?



Breakfast was finished when we got back to the ship just before 10.00am, but then I don’t know if I fancy breakfast after a chocolate cornetto. Breakfast might have finished, but they were then laying out morning tea – sandwiches and soup. Oh well, that will do then!



After a couple of hours, it was time for our excursion to Mitchell Falls. This was one that we chose to go on – and at $495 each it had better be good. Paul was bullied into going – he could have taken it or left it. I should have taken me and left him – it would have been half price then! We got on the zodiac to go the short way to the beach on Naturalist Island, where the helicopter was to land. We got a few metres from the shore and then stopped – we were waiting for the helicopter to come in. One of the crew, Kevin, produced an umbrella to sit under to keep the sun off. What will they think of next? The helicopter came in, and we had a four seater all to ourselves. The pilot, who was called Will and seemed very similar to my Will, (full of youthful energy and mischief) sat up front, and Paul and I had the back seats. We may have had seats, but we had no doors. It was completely open. We strapped in, and put the headphones on. “Press the black button to speak” said Will. Paul asked what the red button did which was next to the black button. “Ejector seat” said Will. What did I say – just like my Will! We took off, and effortlessly rose into the air. As we had a wet landing, the helicopter had sand in from our feet. “They don’t mind about that” we were told. “As there are no doors they fly sidewards for a bit to tip it all out.” Can’t wait! We followed the Hunter River for a bit, and saw Porosus Creek that we had gone up this morning in the zodiacs. We looked into the water trying to find shadows of crocodiles, but couldn’t see any. Got some amazing pictures from up there. I did lean out a bit to try to get a better shot, and the wind would have blown me away had I not been strapped in – it was so strong. Lovely and cool though! We took about twenty minutes to travel over the acres and acres of land full of rocks, trees and not much else. No wonder this area is only accessible by sea.



We landed at Mitchell Falls, and made our way over the plateau to a beautiful large swimming hole. No crocs here – or so they say! Several people were already swimming, but we took the hike to the look out points instead. Look out point number one was fairly easy to get to. It was ten minutes over fairly large rocks, that were quite flat and easy to walk on most of the time. From here, three of the four waterfalls were in view. Look out point number two was a different matter. “Go as far as you think you can, then go further” were the instructions. What sort of instruction is that? We did, and then went further and further. This involved scrambling over rocks, scrambling round rocks, jumping down and climbing up. But the view was worth it. From here, you could see all four falls at once. Out of the gushing spray at the bottom one there appeared a rainbow – which made it look magical.



After taking several pictures, we made our way back up to the top, and then hopped in the helicopter for the return journey. Anya, one of the marine biologists from the ship, rode shotgun next to the pilot, as we were the last people to leave. Apparently, there is lots of Wandjina art in the rocks all over the Kimberley. Hikers sometimes stumble on it, much of it isn’t documented. I suspect that there is much, much more as the aboriginal people have lived in this area for hundreds of years.



After another very scenic flight back to Naturalist Island, the zodiac is waiting to take us back to the ship – and afternoon tea! What another lovely day! At the recap tonight we saw another set of amazing photographs that Mick had taken on the trips out today. His wildlife photography is something else – so clear and he knows all the birds, what they do, where they go and anything else that anyone asks. He truly is a master at his job! At 6.00pm we set sail for Vansittart Bay, which is to be our first stop tomorrow. An early night, after another exceptional dinner of course, was the order of the day. This expedition lark is wearing me out!

Australia Day 7 – Tuesday 5th June

This morning was a leisurely start – we had to be on the zodiacs at 10.15am. We had a ten minute transfer to our first wet landing – having to get out of the zodiacs into the sea, and then walk up to the beach. Consequently, we had to wear shoes that were suitable for water, and then take footwear that was suitable for our hike this morning. We were anchored off Raft Point this morning, and somebody said it was like Sydney Harbour – there was another boat there as well! I somehow think Sydney Harbour may be a little busier. The other boat was the Coral Princess, and catamaran type cruise vessel, which left very shortly before we were ready to board the zodiacs.




Paul put his boots in his backpack, but tied mine most precariously on the outside – they were hanging over the sea all the way! As we came up to the beach, the little shelter had been erected again, and had good supplies of water, sun cream, insect repellent and towels to dry your feet on – they think of everything. This is an expedition without having to think for yourself! After adorning the hiking boots, we were introduced to some of the Wandjina tribe that were there to escort us to their Aboriginal Art Gallery. We were all given two fingers of ochre on each cheek – made me think of the SAS, although looking at our fellow guests I think that was where the likeness ended! We had to then hike up to a saddle of rock that forms the art gallery. It was about 45 minutes uphill, and was quite steep in places – but there were members of staff at every dodgy point to help. Orion really do make sure that even those with less mobility have every chance of joining the expeditions if they so wish.



The views from the trail on the way up are staggering. Near the top, the overhang can be seen. One of the elders of the tribe, Donny Woolandooja, was at the top to meet us and to give us an explanation of the art. The figures that had been painted here had been there for many, many years, and his father Sam Woolandooja had repainted them in 1971. They had been originally painted many years before, around 150 I think. Apparently, the elder of the tribe does this to keep the tradition going. He spoke excellent English, and had quite a sense of humour. He said there were other galleries not far from here, around five hours walk. His not far and mine are two different things. He also said that he doesn’t go far when it is as cold as this – bearing in mind it is about 29 degrees, and everyone is sweating buckets after the exertion of climbing up the gallery, I thought he was joking. But no, to him it is cold. The figures painted in here are mostly on the ceiling, as that is where they want their spirit to go when they die. Wandjina figures are some of the most visually striking of all images in Kimberley art. Wandjina are usually painted as full length or head and shoulders, either standing or lying horizontally. Their large mouthless faces feature enormous black eyes flanking a beak like nose. The head is usually surrounded by a band with outward radiating lines. Elaborate head dresses are both the hair of the Wandjinas and the clouds. Long lines coming out from the hair are the feathers which Wandjinas wore and the lightning which they control. Wandjina ceremonies to ensure the timely beginning of the monsoon wet season and sufficient rainfall are held during December and January, following which the rains usually begin. It is absolutely fascinating.

The journey back down is almost as difficult as the journey up – but it was worth the effort. When we get back down to the beach, the Wanjina have set a fire with lots of smoke. Everyone has to walk through the smoke, as it is supposed to give you health and make everything right. Perhaps I had better walk through several times! There was a little tent with paintings for sale – I had brought my credit card just in case (they may be Aboriginal but they know how to take money!) but to Paul’s delight they had started to pack up by the time we got there.



In the zodiac on the way back to the boat Paul spies a huge bird of prey circling overhead. I took several pictures – all out of focus! One day I will get it right! We get back, and the lunch on deck is Japanese. A quick snooze in the sunbed on Deck 6, and it is time for the next zodiac adventure. We had moved a few miles along the coast during lunch, to anchor closer to Montgomery Reef.



This time, the padded benches are not in the zodiacs, as they are going to take eight people per boat. The seats on the side are not that bad – in actual fact I think I prefer them. We zoom off towards Montgomery Reef. After we had been going about ten minutes we all pull up around Mick’s zodiac – he had pulled a huge venomous sea snake out of the water, and was showing everyone. If it had bitten him, he would have had around eight minutes before he died! “Don’t tell my wife” he says – obviously she knows what he is like! We then go on, to clear blue sea everywhere. The tide here is about ten metres between low and high tide. Harry says that earlier that morning, Orion could have quite easily sailed over this spot. Before our eyes, the sea seemed to be lifting out of the water. It was an optical illusion – the sea wasn’t lifting out of the water, rather than the tide was going out and the sea was cascading off the reef. As the minutes went on, some places were gushing like white water rafting. There is something like so many million gallons of sea coming off the reef every minute – I can’t remember exactly. The reef is 400 square kilometres, so is absolutely huge – not pretty coral though, more mud like!



There is a gap in the reef, that leaves a river that we all travel up. The reef is becoming bigger and bigger, and in some places it is like waterfalls coming off. There are turtles that keep popping their heads up, and egrets that are landing on the reef looking for food. The reef appearing like that is absolutely amazing, and apparently does not happen like that anywhere else in the world. As we start to travel back, there is a huge sandbank appearing before us. Paul looks, and says “I think someone is having a picnic on there”. As we get level with it, there is the Orion staff with trays full of Mai Tais for everyone. They have set up their umbrella and flag, and all the zodiacs land for cocktails on the sandbank! Amazing!



As we travel back to the ship, there is the most amazing sunset, with blues, pinks, oranges and reds all over the sky. What a lovely end to the trip.



When we get back on board, it is a quick shower and change ready for the recap on the day, and the briefing on tomorrow’s itinerary. In the recap, Max asks if anyone saw the meteor that went across the sky last night. Apparently it was seen all over the world, and hit the headlines in the newspapers. Perhaps it wasn’t the mad Irish Captain after all!



After singing Land of Hope & Glory in tribute to the Queen (we missed the whole thing that was shown live on the TV’s as we were still in the zodiacs, but apparently it rained) we had a Diamond Jubilee Dinner in celebration. That is good enough for me!

Australia Day 6 – Monday 4th June

This morning we had an early morning alarm call at 6.00am. Some holiday! We are anchored in Talbot Bay today, which is located within the King Leopold Mobile Zone. Again we see the effect of the colliding of the Kimberley land mass with the Australian land mass having created the most stunning scenery all along this coast. The zodiacs are due out at 6.45am, so that we get the full benefit of the tides going through a natural phenomena called Horizontal Waterfalls. The water is at its fastest in the middle point of a low and high tide – which is at around 9.30am this morning.




After a quick cup of coffee, we get on the zodiacs and start our trip around to an area called Cyclone Bay. The rock formations are all around – and the tide marks on the rocks show that we are around three metres from the high tide. The tides in this area are about the third biggest in the world – around ten metres. After travelling half an hour or so in beautiful calm waters, we get up close to the sheer face of the rocks, around 50 metres straight up. About twenty metres up, in a little cave overhang in the rocks, we find a rock wallaby. We are really lucky to see one at this time of day, as they are nocturnal creatures. They are medium sized animals, and live in the rocks in the shelter that the caves in the rocks provide, usually only coming out into the surrounding terrain at night to feed. They live in colonies, and are very territorial. They don’t usually travel any further than two kilometres from the caves that they have deemed their home. After posing for pictures for a good ten minutes – plenty of time to get one in focus, but it seems that my camera was more intent in getting the rocks to the side of it more in focus than the wallaby. One of the shots has a very clear nose though! Then we see two more – result! They are scampering up the sheer face of the rocks – well perhaps if I looked more closely it wouldn’t be a sheer face. I am sure there is something for their feet to cling on to!



We then travel around the bay, and in and out of little inlets that are perfectly calm, and then parts where the tide is coming in and the water is swirling around, causing vortexes in the water. I imagined the Pirates of the Caribbean film where the Black Pearl was swirled around and taken under in a large vortex – but it didn’t happen! “This is good crocodile country” says Max – the marine biologist that is driving our zodiac. They normally come out of the water and lay on the muddy banks at low tide to warm their bodies up in the sun. Nothing! No crocodiles sunning themselves today. We hear Harry (another Marine Biologist driving one of the other zodiacs) come over the radio saying nothing here today. Just after we heard that, Paul spots a croc swimming in the water on the right hand side. I actually manage to get a couple of good shots of it! It’s eyes came out of the water first, then it’s whole head, they the first part of its body, and then another part. It could only have been around twenty metres from the zodiac. It was probably about four to five metres long – I don’t think his whole tail came out of the water. Max got on the radio, and the other boats came zooming up. Mr Croc obviously wasn’t happy at being the centre of attention, as he went under the water and wasn’t seen again. “Yeah, yeah” says Harry “Sure you saw a crocodile!”. Yes we did, and I have the pictures to prove it!



We then made our way to the part of Talbot Bay that is the site of the Horizontal Waterfalls. The effect of the waterfalls is created by the rapid tidal fall on the ocean side of gaps in the sandstone cliffs. Waters on the inland side of the gaps cannot escape fast enough, and so a “horizontal waterfall” is created by the cascades, with water levels differing by a several metres on either side of the gaps. It flows both ways, depending on whether the tide is going in or out. The gaps have been made over millions of years by geological movement, with the rocks turned vertical and then the once layers of softer siltstone eroded away leaving gaps in the harder layers of rock. The main gap is about fourteen metres wide, and as the tide is coming in the water is pushed faster and faster through the gap, and the white foam of the water is more and more. We cannot go through the gap on the zodiacs, as the water is so fast that the engine would not be strong enough to get us back out again at this point in the tide. There is another gap further on beyond this one, but we are only able to see it from a distance from here.



There is a fast boat that takes passengers that does go through the gap at high speeds – we could have gone on this later this afternoon, but we weren’t quick enough to sign up for it so it was already full. We saw it with other passengers on go through several times, so I think that was good enough and it saved us $75 each! That is what I am telling myself anyway. There have been several sea planes land whilst we have been on the bay. These bring tourists from as far as Broome to go on to the fast boat. Apparently, a couple of young brothers live on a houseboat in the bay who own the two fast boats, and do trips several times a day for six months of the year – during the winter months as we are in now. During the summer it is too hot, humid and wet. We also see their pontoon which has a hammock and a sofa and not much else. Very peaceful place to live – no neighbours to complain about the noise!



We get back to Orion at around 9.30am – just in time for breakfast. What an exhilarating morning. Now it is time for relaxation after that early morning start. Too much relaxation – I fell asleep and missed lunch! Not too bothered though – I can do with missing a few meals. The announcement that there was to be a lecture in the Cosmos Theatre by Mick Fogg, the expedition leader, on the Kimberley Region woke me up – glad it did too! It was really interesting – slightly above my intellectual level. Far above it in fact. But absolutely fascinating. I hope I can remember all of it when I come home. We also found out that if we had been on Mick’s boat, we would have seen him arm wrestle a snake out of the water. Mick Fogg – no, it must be Mick Dundee!



Afternoon tea is then served – and very welcome it is too for those of us that missed lunch! Brie and grape sandwiches – delicious. Who would have thought of putting those two together? After a quick shower, the sail away was at 5pm – and there was a fantastic sunset at the front end of the ship, whilst the full moon was rising at the back of the ship. Wow – what photo opportunities!



There was then a lecture in the Cosmos Theatre by Harry on the Wandjina Rock Art called “Spirits in the Clouds”. This was all about the Aboriginal People in this part of the country, and what it means to them. It was really interesting, and gave us an insight into what we are going to see tomorrow.



There then was an announcement over the tannoy that the moon was in partial eclipse – so I had to grab the camera and go and take a few hundred more photos (that is an exaggeration, but not much!).



We then went into the Leda Lounge for a recap on what we had all seen today, and yesterday, and they showed photos of all the wildlife that we had seen, (or not!) along with photos of the whole day in one way or another. My crocodile photograph was displayed – Max had came and asked if he could have it on a memory stick, but I didn’t know what for. It was announced that this crocodile has been christened Bridget – don’t know what to think of that!



We then had a seafood barbeque on the deck outside. All the tables were laid, and the array of seafood was phenomenal! Prawns the size of a small lobster, snapper, trout, clams, Moreton Bay Bugs (lobster to you and me) crab, oysters, mussels and much more. And so tasty – everything was from the sea and not specifically farmed – and boy could you taste the difference. The weather was so warm as well – a lovely evening to sit outside. All the staff had their Caribbean shirts on – it was a really lovely evening. We found out that there was another couple of “foreigners” on the ship as well – from New Zealand. That makes six of us that are not Australian! There was a huge shooting star that went right across the back of the ship. “No it isn’t” said Paul. That was far too close to earth, and not a bit like a shooting star. The Captain is Irish, so I think he was having a bit of a game with everyone sitting on the back of the boat eating dinner. It still got some people fooled though! Me included if Paul hadn’t put me right.

Australia Day 5 – Sunday 3rd June

This morning we awoke to another beautiful clear blue sky. Whether or not the sea had been rough in the night I do not know, as I slept soundly. We were still on the way at 8.00am – due to drop anchor at around 9.00am. Breakfast was up on the deck in the outside café. There was plenty of shade, but how lovely to eat in the fresh air. It was so warm, even at that time in the morning. There was someone manning the egg station – so I was happy! Why is it that I love omelettes when I am on holiday, but never fancy them when I am at home? One of the little oddities of life. The array of fresh fruit, yoghurt, cereals and hot food was fabulous. And what a setting!




At 9.30am we had a briefing for the three or four optional trips that we could book during the holiday, and if we wanted to go fishing. They also briefly covered what it involved getting in and out of zodiacs, which tours needed a little bit more mobility than others, and a very short overview of the route we are to take over the next few days. We had to take our zodiac life jackets, so that we knew how to put them on and off (seemed very straightforward, but some had trouble!). After that, it was a mid morning coffee before changing into swimming gear and heading for the zodiacs.



We had anchored in waters called Yampi Sound. We were just off Koolan Island, which is known for its iron ore mine. There is a tagboard by where we get into the zodiacs, as and you go past you have change your room number from blue (which means you are onboard) to white (which means you are not). No electronic means of knowing where you are here! Also, they did say that they wouldn’t sail away with any whites on the board. Unlike other cruise ships, where if you miss it, it is your hard luck! Just before you get on the zodiac, there is a little table with sunscreen, insect repellent and water – they think of everything! We hopped, very safely, into the zodiacs, and set off for Crocodile Creek. Getting in and out (so far) was a piece of cake. There are two people to help you off the ship and into the zodiac, and one in the zodiac to point you in the direction of where you are to sit. On the short trips like this one (about fifteen minutes) it takes around ten people maximum all sitting on the rubber sides. The sea was a little choppy, but nothing much. As soon as we had left open water and gone into the inlet it was really calm, so we speeded up. The layered sandstone cliffs had amazing buckling and folding formations, which is evidence of millions of years of geological forces.



After about fifteen minutes we came to the end of the inlet, where there were stone steps hewn out of the rock. Again, with all the people helping getting out was a doddle – at least I didn’t see anyone fall in! We walked up the steps, and this beautiful waterfall and water hole came into view. It is called Crocodile Creek, although it defies its name as it is crocodile free (allegedly!). This is because of the several vertical embankments that presumably the crocodiles can’t manage. As we walked up the rocks to where the water hole opened up, there was a little shelter put up where we were served marguerita’s – complete with salt and lime. Wow!



We went for a half an hour swim in the water hole – it was quite cold when we went in, but absolutely beautiful once you were in. Some people climbed the rocks near the waterfall, and some even jumped in from the top! When we got out, we were told that there was fresh water on the top that made it cold, but the salt water underneath kept it warm. There are fairly varying tides in this part of the world, and had already been told that the window for getting in and out of the creek was between 11.30am and 2.00pm. We were then told that at high tide, the sea flows into the water hole. Which means the crocodiles could flow into the water hole….. I hope they count everyone back in! Sitting in the sun, drinking my marguerita, I look up above the shelter, and see a lady doing massages. Had I had too many? No, they have brought a portable massage table with them, and are giving massages.



At around 1.45pm we make our way back to the last zodiac going back to the ship. The sea is so calm this time, no waves at all. When we get back on board there is a lovely smell of lunch. Lunch is again served in the outside café – and there is such a selection. Soup, salad, fresh pasta, lasagne and lots of lovely puddings and ice cream. Oh no – why can’t it be horrible for once? I opted for the lasagne, and it was the nicest lasagne I have ever eaten. I did have salad with it – so I suppose it was half healthy! Then I had mango ice cream, which definitely wasn’t!



After an hour or so rest, we then got the lifejackets on again to go on a one and a half hour zodiac tour to Nares Point and round by the mine on Koolan Island. Just before we got into the zodiacs, which now had padded benches in them, (how much more pampering can we take?) taking a maximum of six people, we saw some bottle nosed dolphins swimming off the side. Once we were all in, we pointed the boat at where they were, and stayed for around half an hour just watching them going in and out of the water. I have got a lot of pictures full of blue sea with only a little black dot of a fin on. I know what they were! We then went to look close up at the sandstone formations. Apparently, the Kimberley, several million years ago, was not attached to Australia. As it got closer and closer and then eventually collided – in a very slow fashion - the sandstone folded and buckled, and it is this pattern you can now see. Even though the sandstone is pure white, it looks red on the outside as it has so much iron ore in that when it hits air it oxidises and goes rusty (I think!). There is a beach here, where apparantly the miners go on their days off – there was a little blue tent erected at the back. “Is it safe to swim here?” someone asks. “99.99% it is, but I wouldn’t” was the answer. I wonder if the miners do? As we round Nares Point the mine comes into view, and you can hear the machinery taking the iron ore out. They are apparently mining at around 80 metres below sea level, and hope to go double that. There is a barrier wall that is keeping the water out – I wouldn’t like to be anywhere near that if it breaches!



The sun is due to set at 5.19pm, and it is getting near to that time, so we make our way back to the ship. There are some stunning sunsets here. The moon also looks a lot bigger than at home – it is a full moon tomorrow. This is also the time when the mosquitoes come out in force, so I agree it is time to go! We are greeted with lovely cold mango juice when we get back on – how thoughtful is that? Then we watch as the cranes on the back lift up all the zodiacs that have been very busy all day.



It is the Captain’s cocktail party tonight – I am just hoping that people aren’t going to be dressing too posh. As I had to pack for five weeks in one suitcase, there were some things that just didn’t come! No problem, people were in allsorts. The champagne flowed freely (as I am becoming accustomed to) at the cocktail party, and we met another lovely couple from Australia. Are there any people on this boat that are not nice? We sat with them at the Captains dinner, and also an American couple joined us. I think we were the only two couples that didn’t have an Australian passport, so they informed us! The dinner, yet again, was excellent. Another four course taster menu that was delicious. I think I might have to stop somewhere to buy a bigger size clothes somewhere in the middle of this five week holiday!

Australia Day 4 - Friday 2nd June

After a full 12 hours sleep in a lovely comfortable bed, I wake feeling fully refreshed. The bed was really comfortable, and when I opened the balcony doors there was a clear blue sky to greet me – what perfect weather.


The room was actually very nice – a really nice size with everything you could need. A good shower, plenty of toiletries, and lovely fluffy towels. We walked to the Sunset Bar & Grill, which is where the breakfast was served. It was buffet style, and not too bad. The staff were fairly cheerful, which was a good sign. I got an omelette made to order, but there were several types of eggs all ready done on the buffet. Eggs Benedict, scrambled and poached – all getting cold and very overdone in the large terrines. Why do people not realise there is only one way to get good eggs – cook them fresh!



The rest of the buffet, although fairly extensive, was also fairly cold. And I am not talking about the yoghurt! For someone not as fussy as me this would be fine. For me, it was very mediocre. We sat outside in the sun, overlooking the lawns and then further on to the sea (although you couldn’t actually see it) so it was a very pleasant setting. Oh well, at least we were only here for one night.



After packing all the cases, and checking out, I asked the receptionist if the bags could be looked after, and if they were secure. “Yes” she said. “They will be kept in the locked porters room.” So I left my hand luggage with my passport and money in as well as the case. We went to sit by the pool for an hour or two, and had a very relaxing morning. One, and only one, really good thing this hotel did was as we were sitting by the pool they brought over a large jug of iced water and two glasses. Never had that before, but what a really good idea.



At 1pm we thought we would make a move, and went to the concierge for him to order us a taxi. “It will be here in ten minutes” he says. When we asked him to get our bags, he showed us a line of luggage outside the reception doors. All of our bags were there – money and passports and all. Luckily. Why do people have to give you the wrong information. With the right information you can make an informed decision – with the wrong information you could lose all your worldly goods! After forty five minutes waiting for the taxi that should have taken ten minutes, I spy three ladies getting into a taxi with Orion tags on their luggage. It looks a fairly large taxi, so I asked if we could join them. Not a problem, and we all have a really good chat for the twenty or so minutes it takes to get to the Pearl Luggers Museum, where we were to meet for the Orion check in. $15 each party for the taxi, which was not bad at all. Apparently, the biggest horse race of the year was taking place in Broome today, so there was a distinct lack of taxis around. Excuse accepted!



When we got to the Museum, there were others milling around, and some Orion staff to take our luggage. I nipped down the road to buy a hat. I was going to get one before I left home, but ran out of time. That’s why I was ready on time – I hadn’t done all I needed to do! The heat is so intense here, that it probably is a good idea even if I do look a bit of a plonker. After checking in (filling in all the insurance info etc on the tickets beforehand, that they didn’t even take) and leaving our passports with the staff here, we were shown on a bus to take us to the port. “G’day again” says the bus driver. It was the same chap that had dropped us off in the taxi. He was probably the only one on duty to do work other than take people to the races!



We drove about fifteen minutes to the Port of Broome, and then came up against shut gates. After five or so minutes of wrangling with the chap that had the keys (who looked a bit like the wild man of Borneo!) he decided that there was something he didn’t like so he went back in his hut and the gates stayed firmly shut. We could see the ship from where we sat (it looked tiny, hardly showed above the jetty) but just couldn’t get to it! The driver got on the phone to his boss, and shouted at the man to come and have a word with him on the phone. He came out of his hut again, and after a short heated exchange went back in and came out with a wad of papers that the driver had to fill in and sign. The he opened the gates. Strange. There was only one ship on the road where we were going, we must have been expected, and it was an official Broome Transportation Bus. Perhaps he felt like being a dictator today!



We arrived at the ship side, got off the bus, and went up some steps into our teeny weeny home for the next ten nights. It might be teeny weeny, but it is really lovely – like a large yacht. The cabin is lovely, and we had champagne (again) and sandwiches in the Leda Lounge. We then had a really extensive lifeboat drill – even to the extent that they showed us how to put the lifejackets on (normal) then how to hold them down with one hand and pinch your nose with the other if you have to jump into the water (not normal!). And to get to a deck as near as possible to the water before jumping in. The life jackets will keep us afloat for up to six days, apparently. Hmm – do they know something I don’t. Paul mentioned to the chap standing next to him that he thought the Chief Engineer was Italian, who don’t do life boat drills. “I’m not” he said from about twenty five yards away – he might not be, but he has damn good hearing!



We went back to the cabin, quickly unpacked, and then there was a sail away party on the deck. Somewhat different to the last few cruises I have been on, the deck was a really small space, but the champagne flowed freely. And we were afforded a beautiful sunset as we sailed away. Lovely.



A quick shower, and then we had a briefing in the Leda Lounge. The various expedition leaders and a few of the main staff introduced themselves, and gave us an idea of what was going to happen tomorrow. Zodiacs and swim holes featured – as did the story of a member of staff on one of their competitor’s ships being eaten by a crocodile about five weeks ago. They assured us that they send an advance party two hours prior to us arriving, with chickens and carcasses to make sure there are no crocodiles. I somehow think that is a bit of an exaggeration… They said there were 87 guests and 74 staff on this cruise – lets see if there are the same number for dinner tomorrow night!



Dinner was at 7.30pm with a “Degustation Menu” which roughly translated is a taster menu. If there was anything on there that you didn’t like, there was a whole page of alternative choices. As usual, I liked everything so had it as it was – and it was delicious. It featured scallops, barramundi, lamb and pannacotta (all on separate courses!). It was open seating, and we sat with a couple that originated from the UK that had been in Sydney for twenty odd years, and a Scottish couple that had been in Brisbane for forty odd years. How bizarre – but what lovely people they are. Everyone we have met so far has been so friendly. At 10.30pm we made our way back to the cabin, as I feel tomorrow is going to be a busy day!

Australia Day 3 – Friday 1st June

After several hours I wake up after another fantastic sleep, and we are nearly in Sydney. I cannot believe how quickly the time has gone – we seem to have got to Australia in no time at all, and my body seems fresh and mostly in sync with the time of the day. I really am going to have to recommend first class to all of my customers!




After another breakfast of coffee and yoghurt, we are almost ready for landing. Paul had the dinner last night, and had a hot breakfast with pastries etc. He is really getting into the swing of it now!



It has all gone far too smoothly so far! We are handed Express Passes on the way out of the door – wonder what they do? We soon find out. Instead of joining the long queue for “All other passports” we go to the express lane, and join at the front of the queue. Through immigration, and the officer manages to book me in without speaking one word. Well, I suppose it is 5.30am. The cases are on the carousel when we get there, and then spy another express lane to get through customs. No problems there either. There are signs for a Terminal Transfer Bus, and Qantas Domestic Transfers. As we are on a Qantas flight now to Perth, and then onward to Broome (I know, I should have got a better travel agent!) we follow the Qantas route. Simple. We check in the bags before we get on the transfer bus, so that is a big plus when arriving into Sydney. Once the bags are checked in, we wait a few minutes for a transfer bus that takes us to the domestic terminal (about ten minutes) and then on to the business class lounge. Yes, you have guessed it. Qantas is a partner to BA, and so my Avios points have got me all my internal flights within Australia, and in business class where they have it. It is really worth adding the points up!



The flight was due to leave at 08:10 for the four and a half hour journey to Perth – and the clocks have now got to be put back two hours. I somehow think that I will not be offered champagne at this hour in the morning, and I am right. Apple juice instead – doesn’t quite have the same ring to it! As soon as we have taken off – around half an hour late – we are offered another breakfast. This time though, the food is more like normal plane food – not really very nice at all. So I stick to yoghurt. Things are not going to be the same ever again if I don’t get to sit in the nose of the plane! Even though I thought my body clock has readjusted, I felt really tired so put the bed down (no-one to give a mattress topper or duvet!) and had a couple of hours sleep. The flight went really quickly again, and soon we were descending into a fairly foggy Perth. We are going to be here for four hours waiting for the connecting flight – and the last one to Broome is in economy, as it is a one class flight. I thought we would have a go at using the Qantas Lounge, even though the onward flight is economy, having arrived into Perth in Business I thought was a good enough reason. Having shown the business class boarding pass to Perth, that wasn’t good enough. The economy boarding pass came out, and was rejected. I then explained that we were originally booked directly from Sydney to Broome, but the Qantas flight was pulled. We then got the sympathy vote, and they let us in! I think with all the Qantas flight changes that are going on at the moment they are probably getting a bit of flack, so are being kind to people that have been re-routed. The laptop battery was on its last legs, and the adapter is in the hold case. A very kind Australian gentlemen, Nigel Fort, who worked with the Australian Government on defence consultations, had a laptop plugged in and gave us his lead, so we had a half an hour boost! He was originally born in the UK, and he and Paul reminisced about various motor cycles they owned/had owned. Then Paul swaps his boarding pass for an adapter from the reception desk – must remember to take it back or there will only be one of us going onward! These four hours went very slowly – I think now I am ready for a good nights sleep in a proper bed. Paul, on the other hand, has put his feet up on his case and is snoring like a trooper. Getting a few strange looks, so I just shrug my shoulders. They only have to put up with it for an hour or two!



Paul does remember to get his boarding pass back, so he continues on the journey with me! This next flight, although a Qantas flight number says it is operated by National Jet Airlines. We have to queue up (oh my god!) to get on, and then get on a bus. Perhaps it’s Ryanair then? No, can’t be. We have seat numbers. The bus then meanders around the airport, as if looking for the plane, and not seeming to find it. We then go past the same set of planes again, and a woman with a yellow jacket gets out, and looks as if she asking “is this is the number 56 to Broome?”. It obviously was, because she beckoned and we all got out. Our luggage should have been tagged straight through from Sydney – what chance does that have if they can’t get the people on! The plane is labelled “Qantaslink”, so I suppose that is a bit confusing.



I think the pilot, and the crew, are all YTS’s. One lad keeps walking up and down the aisle taking two packets of pretzels at a time to give to people – and they turn out to not even be pretzels! I wonder if he has ever been shown a quicker way of serving people? They eventually manage to get drinks, and a small sandwich tray to everyone, and get it all cleared away before we land. The flight is just two and a half hours, so goes quite quickly. We were afforded a beautiful sunset out of the window at around 5.45pm – fifteen minutes out from landing. Then the plane seems to have been taken over by a five year old. One minute, on the descent, we were pushed back into the chairs because the plane was speeding up so fast, and the next it seemed as if the brakes went on. We were one height, then another, then back up again. By this time the sun had gone down and it was virtually black outside. I wonder if the pilot couldn’t see anything either? The landing was one of the hardest and bumpiest I have ever experienced, and fastest. The brakes went on so hard you could hear all the bags in the overhead locker hitting the end walls, and everything that wasn’t held in place went forward. I heard several remarks like “I need a change of underwear now”, so it wasn’t just me! But we arrived safely into a beautiful little airport that looked as if it should have been in the Caribbean.



We walked the twenty or so yards to the arrivals hall, which was like a square box with everything in it. One carousel, and a couple of car hire and hotel desks. Nothing else. But from the time we landed until the time we were walking out, with all our luggage, was less than twenty minutes. We are staying at the Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa, which is on Cable Beach. They have a desk at the airport, and a complimentary shuttle bus that takes us to the hotel. Very quick and efficient. That is where the speed and efficiency ends. The bus was fairly full, around eight couples, who are obviously all going to want to check in once they arrive. The driver was excellent, very friendly. He told us to go and check in whilst he unloaded the luggage, then come out and the porters would take the luggage and show us to our room. Sounds perfect. Unfortunately not. After queuing for just over twenty minutes, as there were only two check in staff on duty and neither was particularly in a hurry, it was my turn. No – the check in girl that should have been free decided to sort out another guest and then issue tennis racquets and balls to a couple of children that turned up. I didn’t mind, but it would have been nice if I had been acknowledged and asked, as I had been standing there for so long.



We checked in OK, and I asked if I could have a later check out than 10.00am as we will be boarding the ship tomorrow at 2.30pm. This had been requested with my booking – so again should not have been a surprise. No – point blank I was told that she “was under strict instructions not to give any late check outs”. Not exactly customer service orientated then. I explained that we had been travelling since Wednesday afternoon and it is now Friday evening, so a relaxing morning would be more than welcome. I also explained that I am a Travel Agent, and having not got any cheaper rate than Joe Bloggs (slipped up there, but should have been staying in Sydney tonight before the direct Sydney to Broome flight for tomorrow was pulled a few weeks ago, and then had to sort out a hotel with fairly late notice) that perhaps they could let me stay a couple more hours so that I could have a full site inspection for any future recommendations I may make. There must be people arriving at 7.00pm tomorrow on the same flight as we had just arrived on, so a 1pm checkout should be no problem at all. No – I can now have the room, but have to pay half the daily rate. On principle, I politely tell them to shove it where the sun doesn’t shine. I don’t think that I will be recommending this hotel to anyone – but as I have been travelling for rather a long time I might now be a bit grumpy! It certainly hasn’t made me go to my room with a spring in my step, as I should have been doing. The room is rather nice though. But the hardware without the software is no good at all – and how many times do you go somewhere where it is the staff and the people that make the trip. I will write more about the room in the morning, when I hope to be in a better mood! Maybe! Depends what the breakfast is like!