Italian Cookery Course - Day Three, Monday 12th May

The bells were not so bad last night – in that I think already I am getting used to them. They strike the number of the hour up to six, and then start from one again, so six is the most that you get in one time. Then of course again at three minutes past the hour. Still not sure why that is. Breakfast at 9 o'clock as we have a 9.30am departure for truffle hunting.
We climb up the mountain in the mini bus for about three kilometres, and park up. We then walk into the truffle reserve, where you need a licence to hunt for the truffles. We have son number two today with his truffle tool and two dogs – Otto and Rex. They are extremely friendly, and seem more intent in getting cuddles than looking for the truffles. We walk into the woods, where we learn where the best places are for the black, more common, truffle at 200 euros a kilo are found, and the white truffle at £3,000 euros a kilo are found. The dogs have a good look round, roll in the mud and generally look as if they are out for a walk. When the dogs start digging, Mateo knows that there is a truffle there, and runs to get there before the dogs eat it. He uses his tool, which is like a large flat screwdriver on a broom handle, to dig it up. We all have a look, and to be perfectly honest it looks like a dried piece of dog poo. Doesn't smell an awful lot better either. Don't think I would pay that much money for it. When they find one, they get a biscuit. Fair swap I suppose! Along the mile or so route we find five and a half truffles – the dog ate half before Mateo could get to one of them. I think we are going to have these for lunch. The flowers that we passed were lovely – not only the wild daisies and other colourful makes that I don't know the name of, there were also wild orchids. Beautiful.
To walk back, we come out of the woods, and walk along the edge of the woods and a beautiful grassy meadow overlooking the valley. The views are magnificent. This area is just so unspoilt and peaceful. The walk is a little uneven, but we all get back to the car mostly unscathed. The dogs look as if they had found a nice little muddy patch looking at the colour of the white ones legs! The weather was lovely this morning as well – around 21 degrees and the sun was out. Just right for a country walk. They jump into the back of their truck, and straight into the dog kennel. Well trained dogs!
When we got back to the hotel the little courtyard was just perfect for sitting and having coffee – nobody seemed to ask for wine today, yet! An hour or so before lunch – just time to chill before another round of food. Which didn't take long to appear. The bread today was seven cereal bread – and it was so good. Why do I always fill myself up with bread? The salad came from mamma's garden, and then we had spaghetti. All very healthy!

We then had time for a siesta before the cooking lesson started for the day. The sun was out again this afternoon, so I stayed out and read in the garden. Everyone else disappeared for a snooze!

We were in the kitchen itself this afternoon – cooking our own four course meal. The first course was Melazane alla Parmigiana, the second was Pesto Genovese to go with the tagliatelle we made yesterday, the third was Pollo alla Cacciatoria and the pudding was Lemon & Ginger Mousse.
We had to start with the pudding, as this needed to set. There was one main dish, but we all had a hand in making it. Maximillian (who I have been calling Massimo because that's what his mamma calls him) was our chef again. He was our guiding light throughout the afternoon – and most of this he could make without actually looking at what we were doing. He was so laid back – not a bit like Gordon Ramsey's kitchen. We then had to chop up two whole chickens – after (so he put it) giving them a final shave over the gas. Our chopping was not too precise – but as we were the main recipients of the food I suppose it didn't really matter what we did.
We were also the commis chefs – chopping and cutting vegetables, whisking cream, frying aubergines, smashing herbs in the pestle and mortar among other things. We had a fine afternoon – no-one lost any fingers which was a miracle with the size of the knives we were using. We left the chicken bubbling nicely on the hob, and everything else finished to a point. I am sure it probably needed a few extra touches, but the main part was done.
We were invited straight after this to Ron & Glenda's apartment for pre dinner drinks. They had a room originally on the second floor the same as we did. The problem with this, was if you came down the forty eight steps from your room to the ground floor, or the extra twenty four steps if it was to the breakfast room or into the garden, and you had forgotten something you had to go all the way back up again. It felt like climbing the Himalayas to me – and Marissa very kindly offered to change their room to an apartment in the annexe a couple of doors down. They had their own sitting room and garden terrace, so offered pre dinner drinks for everyone one evening, and tonight was it. We even had nibbles to go with the wine. As it was gone seven when we finished the cookery, we had a quick drink and then an even quicker shower before dinner. It only seemed two minutes ago that we had the last meal!

But it was a lovely meal. Even though I say so myself. The aubergine didn't taste like aubergine at all – not sure if that was a good thing, but it was for me because I don't really like aubergine. The pasta with the pesto sauce we had was fab, the chicken was tasty (but there were a few splintered bones that I think were caused by our inaccuracy with the chopper more than anything else) and the lemon mousse was just divine. I wonder how many pounds we have put on now!

Italian Cookery Course - Day Two, Sunday 11th May 2014

Well – we found out what the ear plugs were for! The bells!! Every hour on the hour, and then every hour on the three minutes past the hour. Not saying that I heard every one, but even I couldn't sleep through that. I am sure by the end of the week we will all not even notice them.
The cookery lesson this morning started at 10 o'clock, so we met for breakfast at a very civilised 9am. Bearing in mind the food we ate yesterday – and feeling that the quantities were going to be very similar for the rest of the week, I was hoping for once in my life that the hotel did not have an egg station. It didn't. But what it did have was a fantastic array of breakfast choice. The strawberries that I put I my granola were of the sweetest variety that I have ever tasted. I left it at that – choosing not to partake in the pastries or the chocolate cake or the home made bread, or any of the other hams and cheeses that were on display. All of the cheese, bread, honey and everything else is all made in house by the family. There is the mamma and papa, two sons and their wives, the 96 year old mammas mama and I am sure a few cousins thrown in as well.
The “Father” of the village popped his head around the door to say good morning – he apparently comes here for breakfast on a Sunday. I think the reason was “buying their way into heaven”! No harm in keeping on the right side of the almighty with leftover food.
One of the sons was taking the pasta making lesson this morning. We all were issued with our own souvenir aprons, and went into a room that had nine tables laid with large wooden blocks on top, a huge three foot or so rolling pin, flour and eggs. We first had a little lecture about how good pasta is made – and only with the best ingredients, and that each kitchen has its own “king”. Was he trying to tell us who was in charge? I think so! We had to start by tipping out the flour, and then make a large hole in the middle. Then put the eggs in the middle. You could tell that this cooking lark was new to Bill & Nick – they just picked the eggs up and laid them in the middle. Not quite sure that's what he meant!
This was then all mixed together, and then the hard work began. We first had to knead the dough with the heel of the wrist to put “power into the dough”. I could feel it transferring out right down my arm! After fifteen or so minutes of kneading, the dough went in a bowl for ten minutes to rest. We were making ravioli and tagliatelle, so whilst this was resting Massimo made the filling for the ravioli. Home made ricotta cheese (which tasted nothing like we get at home), spinach, salt, pepper and nutmeg all got mixed together. We then had to make the pasta look like pasta. No machines like on Masterchef here. Everything made by hand. We first had to make the lump look a bit like a steering wheel, then roll and flip to keep it in a round shape. Every time it was rolled out it seemed to shrink back to the size it was originally. This could be a long job! After a while he said he would show us another way of making it so that you could read a newspaper through it. It involved putting it on the rolling pin, “shaking” it with the palm of your hand and rolling it up at the same time, turning it and unrolling it. Couldn't actually make sense of how that was going to work, but it did. We soon all had sheets of pasta that were about two feet in diameter. This was cut in half, and one half was prepared for the ravioli. We all had a bowl of the filling mixture. The half we were working on was folded in half to make a crease down the middle. Then little blobs of filling had to evenly spaced all over one half. The other half was folded over the top and then the side of the hand was used to stick the top and bottom pasta together in between the blobs of filling. Then we used a ravioli cutter to cut little squares out with the filling in the middle, and it looked amazingly like ravioli! The other half of the pasta was folded over and over again, and then cut into half inch lines, which opened out into long pieces of tagliatelle. Easy peasy!!
Marissa came back in with another bottle of prosecco. They sure do know how to end a lesson over here! We did attempt to sit out in the courtyard for half an hour before lunch, but it was a bit windy. The empty glasses were even blown over, so we decided to retire to the dining room for lunch. We started with a salad with everything grown in mamma's garden. Then we had the ravioli to follow. It was rather nice. Even looked like it should have done after it was cooked. I had visions of the filling being more out than in. Another round of clean plates!
The dining room was packed full today – family Sunday lunches. What we did notice was that some people were having ravioli that looked very familiar, and some were having tagliatelle. It was indeed, we ascertained, our pasta. Does this make us professional chefs now I wonder? All the paying clientèle also had clean plates, so really couldn't have been too bad.

We had a couple of hours for a quick siesta before we met at 3.30pm for the afternoon tour to the local winery. Well – this was afternoon tea like I had never had before. We first drove just over thirty minutes to the Placci winery, owned and run by Emilio Ploacci – who spoke no English. Massimo – the chef from this morning – was now our driver and ultimately the translator. This was an organic vineyard. We went to see the vines, and learned all about the different types of wine produced here. There were barrels upon barrels stored in the stone cold storeroom.

From there, we went into the “tearoom”. We were not only going to be tasting several types of wine, but also several types of food that is produced here as well. We started with a Chardonnay-Savignon white – something of which I had not tasted the likes of before. Ron was definitely the wine expert of the group, and he was very happy. This was accompanied by home made bread with three types of olive oil. Another five red wines followed, along with two types of salami, prosciutto ham, sheep’s cheese, a pork something that tasted like my grandmother's wardrobe smelt (the only one I didn't like) and several more pieces of bread to soak up the copious amounts of wine being consumed. This all took place over over two hours – and we all staggered out very very happy! The wine was amazingly good, because Emilio did a very good trade this afternoon. Excess baggage on the way home – or will it all be consumed before then? Never before in the afternoon have I been in charge of a group like this!! Someone mentioned a sing song on the way down, but luckily after one verse they gave up.
We all got back in the minibus, and started our journey down the mountain back to the hotel. It looked as if a tornado had been through the region whilst we had been tasting the wine – there was tree debris all over the road. We hadn't heard a thing! We got back to the hotel at just before 7pm – and had to be ready for dinner at 7.30pm. This is just one long eating and drinking expedition.

Time for a quick shower. Down for dinner – where everyone was present and correct, and were looking all quite sprightly. Although some, I noticed, were only on the water! Another lovely four course meal – sheep's cheese and broad beans antipasti, a pasta and mozzarella pancake thing, veal with a truffle sauce and chocolate mousse. What this hotel lacks in respect of the rooms it certainly makes up for with the food and the friendly service.  Whilst I was sitting in the dining room finishing the blog, Marissa came in and asked me to turn the lights off when I went to bed.  Must be only me left then!!

Italian Cookery Course - Day One, Saturday 10th May 2014

An early start for the flight out to Bologna from Terminal 5 at Heathrow – we were meeting the group at 6.30am for an 8.30am flight. What a miserable and cold day to leave the UK – raining, dreary and windy. A typical spring morning! Luckily, we had stayed the night before in the Sofitel, which is attached to the terminal so we didn't have to brave the fresh air at all. We met everyone, except one couple that we seemed to have missed (note to self, make sure I take a Travel Stop sign next time I am trying to meet people who I don't know what they look like), but made sure that they had checked in so at least they were there. Jenny, who I also did not know, had said she had white hair and jeans. Amazing how many ladies have white hair and travel in jeans! It helped to find her though.

Time for breakfast! The group seem to be getting on really well together looking at how they were chatting over breakfast. Even the Eastern European waiter had a good sense of humour – he needed it when he managed to dip his tie into Paul's latte! The food was apparently not good though – glad I did not partake.

It was a quick hop to the gate, and the flight left on time. A completely full flight – except for the seat in between Nick and Jane, so they were in “business class”. A very nice bacon, tomato and cheese croissant was served – included in the price!! And Paul ended up sitting next to Glenda and Ron, who we missed before we checked in. Result! Two hours soon went, with some spectacular scenery across the alps. Bologna airport was a lovely little airport – and it was 25 degrees when we landed. Beautiful!

Our driver was there to meet us through passport control. After paying for the parking, we followed lots of people with bicycles that were on our flight (Nick ascertained that they were here for a bike race) out to the car park. We had a mini bus and a car for the nine of us – as the driver of the car was rather better looking than the driver of the mini bus Isabel decided they were going in the car! The luggage (just) went in the back of the mini bus, and we were on our way. The air conditioning needed to be on full flow, as the temperature was now up to 28.
The first part of the journey was through very flat but very rural countryside. Lots and lots of grapevines, peach trees and other crops that were in full bloom. Then we had to stop for petrol – one wonders why he didn't fill up before getting to the airport! Perhaps Daniele from Typically Italian had threatened him with something worse than death if he was late picking us up! After about forty five minutes we started to get into hill territory. The scenery changed dramatically – it is absolutely stunning. Lush green rolling hills, and quaint little villages with an odd fort or two thrown in. And lots of very fit people on racing bicycles. They seem to take this sport very seriously.
We arrived at the Al Vecchio Convento after just over an hour and a half journey from the airport. We had gone into the tiny streets of Portico di Romagna, under an arch and the hotel was on the left hand side. A converted convent, it is extremely old with beautiful flowers and seats outside the front door. The “mamma” of the hotel came out to meet us – just as Daniele had described. He had promised that she would be everyone's mamma by the end of the week. We were all shown to our rooms – very basic but functional. It is a converted convent, so I don't believe nuns needed all the mod cons. There are ensuite facilities in every room, and the shutters open and overlook the front street and the bell tower.
A lunch was set out for us in the garden. A beautiful little courtyard garden, with a table for nine laid for us. We had a starter of roasted vegetables, with home made bread. Then came the pasta dish – I thought this was going to be a light lunch! Beautiful! The chef was the son of the owner, that came out to make sure everything was OK. By the look of nine clean plates I think everything was OK! He said he was going to be showing us how to make pasta tomorrow – if it tastes like this I think I might be trying it when I get home.

After a rather elongated lunch that lasted until 4o'clock, a couple of us decided to go for a wander whilst others decided that lunch, more importantly the wine course, should last until 6pm. No names at this stage! Needless to say, Paul looked after this contingency. After turning right out of the hotel, a hundred yards down a tiny street, right again through a tinier alleyway that must have had a one in four gradient, around a cobbled street and over a bridge that was the biggest up and over I have ever seen. This was over the river, and then we walked alongside the river. What a beautiful area! We walked back over a weir back to the other side of the river, and then on a bit further to a waterfall where there was a swimming hole in between the rocks. A bit chilly (or rather icy) so I declined! So peaceful. Daniele phoned, just to make sure everything was OK. I could (and probably should) have wound him up. What was it he said I needed to do if anyone asked a question? Hands in the air, shrug the shoulders and what will be will be! He was pleased to hear that we were all here and happy. He can sleep tonight!

The walk back was round the other way, and back to the hotel via the village again. Virtually every house had their elderly sitting out the front in the sunshine. How European. Or is it that we don't have the weather in the UK to be able to do that? Is it the olive oil or the good weather that prolongs life out here? So many questions!!
Back to the hotel – the wine contingency were still in the same place as we had left them. So we had to join them again. This is going to be a very liquid holiday I feel.
It was soon 6.15pm – we needed to be back and ready for our “presentation” about the week ahead and dinner by 7pm. A quick visit to the room, unpacked and got ready for dinner. Along with the basic room, the bath towels are more like tea towels. I am sure we will manage! Along with having to get a small step ladder to get onto the bed – it is rather high. And what do we need the ear plugs for that are left by the bed? Either they have heard about my snoring, or something is going to happen perhaps very early in the morning that we really don't want to hear. Might be something to do with the bell tower. Will update you on this tomorrow!
We met in the garden for a lovely bottle of prosecco, and Marissa (mamma) went through the programme for the week. Will update you day to day on this, but needless to say it looks as if we may all be going home a few pounds heavier than when we arrived. We then had a short Italian lesson. We should all now be able to be very polite when we ask for a large glass of wine!

Dinner is in the dining room – a lovely old room with many, many artefacts all around. First course is the antipasti – more vegetables in olive oil, different from lunchtime. With lovely home made Italian bread. Then comes the risotto course – with asparagus. I think everyone could have finished with that course – but then we had the meat course. Wild Boar, with some sort of onions and cabbage. Lovely. Only the dessert and the coffee course left. It was Jane's birthday today, and the pudding came out with three candles in for her.  Nice touch! Sorry to say that there were lots of clean plates. Good to know that we all enjoyed it, but feel we are all well on the way to putting on the first few pounds. Bring on tomorrow!

South American Adventure - Day Twenty Six, Monday 17th March 2014

Our last day – tonight we fly home to London.  Not to waste the last day – much to Paul’s dismay – I think it best we get up early, have an early breakfast, and go on a walking tour that I have found.  I don’t think he wants me to go “off into the sunset” again, so agrees to come with me.  I think he was ideally thinking of a day on the beach!

The meeting place is in Carioca Sqaure, under the Carioca Clock.  The concierge says that the quickest way to get there is metro, but we decide to take a taxi.  On a Monday morning, in probably rush hour.  After about forty five minutes in the taxi, we can see why he suggested the metro.  After sitting in stationery traffic, we make hand signals to the driver, pay him, and as far as possible think we are setting off in the right direction.  We are, and we get there with thirty seconds to spare.  Better than thirty seconds after they have left!  This is a free walking tour – but very much with tips expected at the end.  It attracts a lot of backpackers, and consequently there is around forty people on the tour. 

The girl that is taking it is very enthusiastic, has very good English, and her voice seems to carry a long way, so no problem.  We start just off the square at St Anthony’s Church.  In here, it has a line of photographs of the square from the 1600’s to present day.  As you would expect, it has changed considerably.  From a lake back in the 1600’s, through to the commercial centre and stock exchange that it is today.  Unrecognisable.  But good to see it change in small slices.  St Anthony is apparently the saint of marriage – you pray to him help find you a spouse.  Not heard of him before!

We then walked through some streets to the Colombo Bakery, one of the oldest bakeries and café in Rio.  Apparently, even our own Queen has taken tea here.  It was very old fashioned, and lovely inside, with so many cakes and pastries……..  But, we  were on a tour so couldn’t stop!  We then went through little cobbled streets that were the hub of industry in the 1800’s, and then into another cobbled street where the rich used to live – but only the facades of the houses remain.  Carmen Miranda had a house here – I can remember my mum once putting a bunch of bananas on her head and dancing like Carmen.  Her house is now a café.  I had a Carmen Miranda cocktail at the Copacabana Palace a couple of nights ago.

We then moved to the Imperial Palace, where we heard a little about the history of Brazil and Portugal, and King John 6^th.  This was his palace when he came over in 1808, but he was a little disappointed.  It certainly didn’t look much like a royal palace.  But in 1808 it would have been better than the ordinary!  We came out of another corner of the palace, which has been turned into a book and record shop, and a fabulous palace stood in front of us.  Tiradentes Palace far exceeds the Imperial Palace for grandeur and beauty.  It opened in the early 1900’s, and was a built on the ground of an old jail that housed a chap called Tiradentes who was a member of the Brazilian Independence Movement.  It now houses the Legislative Assembly of the state of Rio.

We then went past a Haviananas flip flop shop – never heard of them, but several people went mad.  Thought they must be good – presents bought!  We then walked on to the main square, that was circled by old and beautiful buildings – the Library, the Theatre and the Fine Arts Museum.  Fantastic.  We then went to the Selaron steps that we went past yesterday – this time we walked up a few, but were advised not to go to the top.  This is where the area changes, and you could get knifed for your camera.  Enough said!  We finished at the Lapa Arches, and then some of us went to lunch at a traditional Brazilian restaurant.  Most of our fellow companions were young backpackers from all over the world comparing stories.  Oh what it is to be young!

We went back to the hotel on the metro – a lot easier, and the station was just behind the hotel.  I then let Paul have an hour or so by the pool before it was time to pack and get ready for the flight home. 

We are both very sad to be leaving.  It was a wonderful adventure!

South American Adventure - Day Twenty Five, Sunday 16th March 2014

Today is the last full day in Rio.  After a relaxed breakfast, we have booked a tour with Eat Rio.  This is a walking tour, tasting typical Brazilian food.  We took at taxi to the Nova Capela Restaurant, which is where the tour was starting in the Lapa District.  Good start – the restaurant was chained closed.  We were slightly early, but soon Tom and Manuella arrived, follwed by two American couples and a German lady.  Tom is from UK originally, but is now married to Manuella and has set up the Eat Rio Tours.  They were as surprised that the restaurant was closed as well.  No problem.  That is what I like to hear!

We moved down the road five minutes, and arranged to have the same dish in a different restaurant.  It was a salted cod fish and other stuff ball, deep fried to give it a crispy shell.  This was cut open, drizzled with olive oil and then (optionally) a hot pepper sauce poured on.  It was delicious.  This was washed down with a traditional pineapple and mint drink.  Round one done – we set off to the next restaurant.

We then walked by the Lapa Arches, or the Carioqua Aquaduct, which were built in the 1700’s.  This was originally built to carry water to the part of the city that was inhabited, but this actual part of it has two storey arches that span around 270 metres.  Very impressive.  It is not used for this any more – in actual fact I don’t think at the moment it is used for anything.  We then walked past the Escardaria Seladon, a set of steps in done in mosaic by a penniless artist from scraps in the 1990’s.  They were done to improve the look of the steps.  He was found burnt to death on them in 2013.  Yuk!

We then went on to our second tasting.  We went to a fruit and vegetable market, and had a tapiocas.  I can remember this name, as I thought it was going to be a milk pudding!  It wasn’t.  It was made of a starch from a vegetable called Manioc.  After going through some process to get the starch, there are ladies on the stall with frying pans than turn it into tapiocas.  They fry it, then put in either a sweet or savoury filling, turn it in half like an omelette and you eat it like a sandwich.  It was delicious, if somewhat different to anything I have tasted before.

The whole of the fruit and veg market was buzzing.  Many of the stalls were cutting the fruit to let you taste it.  We had some mango that was so sweet – and so cheap!  Some of the fruits were recognisable, but some I had never seen before.  We then went on to have another drink.  This was made with pure sugar cane.  There were a couple of men with a machine in a van, and they fed the actual sugar cane into it.  A bit like a big juicer.  The liquid that came out was then mixed with other things – not sure what, and then you had it in the cup.  There was a squeeze of lime that went in last.  Another delicious drink.

We then went into the metro.  A very good system.  The station and the train were air conditioned – lovely, it was a very hot day again.  We went two stops, and then got off in another district.  We then had a weird soup.  I will explain it.  It contains cyanide, a plant that is an anaesthetic, a couple of other things that make it gloopy and a whole prawn.  They are selling it – so I am eating it!  Apparently the cyanide is cooked out, so it isn’t poisonous when you come to eat it.  Hope the chef hasn’t got the hump about anything!  It wasn’t too bad – very salty, and no matter how I tried to eat the prawn whole I couldn’t bear the thought of the crunch, so shelled it.  The shell was really soft, and very hard to peel.  Still did it though.  My mouth definitely went a bit numb, but I didn’t fall down dead (for the second day in a row!).  We also had a dish made of the acai berry here.  A very refreshing frozen drink type thing.  Made your mouth and teeth purple.  Went with the fact that I couldn’t feel them anyway!

We then walked some more to another market, and had a very alcoholic drink here over ice that came in either passion fruit or coconut flavour.  That made everyone happy!  Strong, but pleasant.  Out last stop was in a restaurant that had been converted from slave quarters before slavery was abolished.  We had Brazilian beer (think we might have already tried that one!) and then another traditional Brazilian dish.  There was a meat dish that was stew like with beans and pork rib, rice, a green kale like vegetable, and something else that you sprinkle over the top.  It was lovely – but by this time everyone was full to the brim.  There was live music here, and full of locals having a very social Sunday afternoon.

What a lovely tour. I think I have remembered everything we had to eat – so much.  No idea about the names though.  Meeting local people, and trying food that we would not have even known what it was let alone order it.  A really good idea.

After the tour we got a taxi to the base of Sugar Loaf Mountain.  We were going up for the sunset.  A really good time to go – there was no queues for the cable car at all.  Sixty one reais each – around £17.  We rode the first cable car, then took some pictures from the first stage before getting on the next cable car to get to the top of Sugar Loaf.  The views from the top are stunning – 360 degrees around the whole of Rio.  We got up to the top at around 5pm, so half an hour or so to wait for the sun to go behind the mountains behind the Christ statue.  We had a little walk around the park area at the top – Paul saw a monkey at the point when I had lost him, so I never got to see one.  There were a few people up there, but nowhere near as many as during the day.  And I think this is the best time to come.  You get the views in daylight, and the magical rays and colours that the sunset brings.  I think the sun should have set a few inches to the left, so that it was right behind the statue.  Instead it went down behind a hill full of electric and power pylons.  Nice!

No waiting to go back down either.  We thought we would try and walk back to the hotel – didn’t look that far when we up the mountain.  As long as there was a way through a couple of other mountains, Copacabana Beach would be right there.  After walking about half an hour, and not really knowing where we were, we decided it would be beneficial to grab a taxi.  I think that was the right choice.  We would have got back to the hotel about midnight!

A quick drink when we got back.  Paul bumped into a Restaurant Manager that he had been talking to last night when he thought I was not coming out of the favela.  He was glad to see me too!  Who doesn’t know where I have been?

South American Adventure - Day Twenty Four, Saturday 15th March 2014

We decided to get up early to do the Corcovado Tour to Christ the Redeemer.  We had a super breakfast by the pool, and had already found out that there were direct vans to the Corcovado just a couple of blocks from our hotel.  We walked to the Praca do Lido just along Copacabana Beach in time to buy a ticket (51 reais, about £15 each) which includes the entry ticket and return transport, for when the first van left at 8.00am.  This was meant to avoid the crowds!  It took around 45 minutes to get to the top of the mountain, where we disembarked and got the elevator to the bottom of the statue.  It was an absolutely glorious day, with a clear blue sky.  It was amazing – and what a feat of engineering.  His middle finger on his right hand still needed a little patching up from a lightening strike, but his thumb, which was chipped last month, seems to be OK now.  Seems it happens quite a lot, but he is a long way up and probably the thing nearest to strike. 

It was OK when we first got up there – no queues, but after being there half an hour or so the place was packed.  Everybody wanted to have their picture taken in the pose.  The views over the city of Rio were amazing – the flight path was actually below our view point, and we could see planes landing from above.  It was quite hazy, and just as we were leaving there was a real haze hanging over the city.  Not sure if that was pollution or heat mist.  We got back to where the vans left from – no queues again yet – and headed back to Copacabana.  Lovely few hours.

The beach was packed when we got back – miles and miles of beautiful sandy beach, with miles and miles of people on it.  Looked like Benidorm.  Copacabana Palace have a little area with sun beds and a beach service.  A piece of haven in the middle of hustle and bustle.  We have a small interlude by the pool, before I go on an adventure on my own.

This afternoon I have booked a “Favela Tour” – a tour of one of the shanty towns.  Instead of going in a car and just looking, I have booked a walking tour, run by a guy that lives in the favela of Rochinha.  This is the biggest favela in South America, and houses around 300,000 people.  Paul has decided that it is not his cup of tea, and opts to stay by the pool!

It is about half an hour to walk to the meeting place of the tour – further down Copacabana Beach.  Dembore is the tour guide, and he also lives in the favela.  There is another English couple, an Israeli and two Austrian ladies.  We start by getting on a bus.  We have to travel the way that the people who live there travel.  We get on an already full bus, and it stops probably ten more times and picks up more people.  We have to feel the “heat” of the people, so Dembore says.  Quite right – it was rather hot.  But everyone is so friendly.  Paul seems to think that will be the last he is going to see of me – he thinks it is extremely dangerous.  I think it will probably be safer than walking along Copacabana Beach!

We take the bus right to the top of the favela – it is a huge expanse that occupies the whole of a hillside.  We have gone up and up – almost as far as we did this morning to Corcorvado.  We can see the statue across on another hilltop from where we get off the bus.  The noise and the traffic are constant.  There is one main street, seven not main streets and about 500 alleyways.  The houses are built into the hillside, and don’t look too steady, but apparently some have been here for over one hundred years.  Sometimes, another storey is just added to an existing house.  Building regulations?? I don’t think so.  In actual fact, this is a bit like the Vatican City with a law all its own. 

They were originally illegal housing, but the government couldn’t get rid of the people.  They moved them on, but they just kept coming back.  In the end, they let them stay.  But they didn’t have anything except what they built.  No water, electricity etc.  The drug dealers started here to make money to pay for the info structure of the community – not sure that it is quite the same now.  There are, apparently, a lot of drug dealers.  They have put a police presence in the favela for show for the World Cup.  I saw a few with machine guns just standing on the streets.  There have been a couple of occasions when there have been shootings.  This is what gives it a bad name.

But this is such a strong community – considering how many people live here, Dembore seems to know most of them.  They all stop to have a chat, and to talk with us – albeit we can’t chat back as no-one speaks English.  All the businesses are run by people in the favela.  99% of the families living here are working – many of them are taxi drivers and work in the hotels.  That is quite an impressive record.  Everyone here is happy – and I don’t feel threatened at all.  This is not how it is portrayed to the outside world.  Not sure I would like to live there though – it is very basic, the little alleyways are only inches wide, and the steps!  If you live at the top, you could walk up two hundred steps to get to your house.  Imagine going to the shop, getting back home and realising you have forgotten the milk!  But, those that don’t have much are usually happy with their lot.

There are little motor bike taxis buzzing about – they only can work in the favela, and the busses are full to the brim.  For all those that work, they use them to get in and out.  As it is a Saturday night, there are barbeques on the street – and music!  Everywhere.  Couldn’t go and have a quiet lie down here.  Apparently the noise won’t stop until about 6.00am tomorrow morning.  We then stop off at the house of the man that runs the tours.  The tours are paying for a DJ Project called Spin Rochinha that is training young adults to be DJ’s.  This gives them something to do to perhaps earn money, and if they are busy they don’t have time to sell drugs.  One of the guys turns up for his training – he comes over two hours each way from another favela.  We stayed there chatting for ages – then Dembore suggests we go and get dinner at a restaurant in the favela.  Everyone agrees – not sure that Paul is going to be happy eating on his own tonight!  I sent him a text just to let him know I was still alive, and not to cash in the life insurance just yet.

We went down the road a bit to a little restaurant – only pizza etc on the menu, but I hardly expected gourmet food.  It was good enough – everyone had at least two drinks, food, and we all split Dembore’s dinner between us and it came to less than £10 each.  Bargain.  The party was getting into real swing now – so much so that I had missed at least two calls from Paul.  Tried to ring him, but then he didn’t answer.  Oh well!

We walked down and out of the favela onto the main road.  We went on an overpass to cross the road, and looked back at the hillside full of lights from the favela.  It was a really lovely afternoon and evening, with some really lovely people.  I decided on a taxi rather than a bus to get back – I am sure Paul was worrying.  When I got back to the hotel he gave me a big hug.  He (weirdly) had been reading a book where a guy was in the middle of a drug shoot out in a favela in Rio.  He had tried to ring several times, I hadn’t answered, and he was really worried.  Oh dear!  Next time he will have to come with me!

South American Adventure - Day Twenty Three, Friday 14th March 2014

We have to say goodbye to Iguazu today.  What a bun fight in the reception to check out – there was several people all checking out at the same time, and some people were just not polite.  If they weren’t the next in the queue, shove and then you are!  Just not my thing – let them get before me.  What goes around comes around!  Our driver from yesterday was there waiting to take us to the airport.  What a lovely man he is.  He said that there is one direct flight to Rio and one to Sao Paulo, and they virtually go at exactly the same time.  Must have been a man that set that timetable up!

I got to the front, eventually, and none of the tours were on the bill, neither was the transfer to the airport.  Well done for sorting that out and going over and above what they had to.  On the way to the airport I complained to the driver that we had seen no jaguars or pumas.  He got his ipad out, and showed us a video that he had shot the other day of a jaguar out the back of the hotel by the pool.  He saw it in his car headlights, stopped the car, wound down the window and got about a two minute video with his iphone.  Who needs a Nikon!   Just a shame that we hadn’t seen one in the flesh.  Never mind – always next time!

We got to the airport and most of the people we had seen in the reception were now in the queue to check in.  Oh what joy.  It was only a small airport, but not as nice as the other small airports we have used in the past three weeks.  We had to check in at one of the self service check in machines – had to get help in the end.  Just getting used to Spanish, now the Portuguese element has thrown a spanner in the works.  We drop the bags off at the TAM checkin desk – and the girl charges me excess baggage!  First time this trip.  Probably got a jobsworth – 55 Brazilian reals, just over £15.  Not too bad.  Looking at all the check in counters, ours was sending people over to the excess baggage window all the time.  Just picked the wrong one.  We got to the gate in loads of time though – but must have been daydreaming as we nearly missed getting on the flight.  That’s the trouble when all the announcements are in foreign.  They called it in English to start with, and then all the other announcements were only in Portuguese.  When we looked the Sao Paulo flight was boarding, and our gate was closed.  A quick run and we made it – just!  Paul had to check with the air hostess that we were on the right plane – they just pointed in the general direction of about three planes and we got on one of them.  It was OK – it was the right one.

We took off, and saw the falls in the distance with their mist wafting high into the air.  We could the see the helicopter buzzing around – on the Brazilian side only.  They are very what is mine is mine and yours is yours.  The helicopter is not allowed to go into Argentinean air space, the boat on the Argentinean side is not allowed on the Brazilian side of the river and vice versa.  What a palaver.  What is the matter with sharing? 

The two hour flights went quickly, with only a bag of cheesy biscuits. Not even a box with a proper biscuit in.  I can tell you quite a lot about the in flight catering on Latin American flights now!  We met all the same people at the baggage carousel that were in the hotel reception again – still pushing in.  How rude!  One lady was actually videoing the baggage carousel and the people standing around it – I don’t think I would want to see her holiday video when she gets home.  It is probably six hours long and very boring!  The bags arrive, and we go to the exit – will there be someone there or won’t there?  Yes, there is!  Yippee. Doesn’t speak a word of English though.

That didn’t stop him telling us what everything was on the way to the hotel.  A bridge that was still in construction was definitely nearer to meeting in the middle than when we passed it three weeks ago.  Back to where we started on 20^th February, and on the final leg.  How it has gone so quickly.  The carnival in Rio has been and gone whilst we have been away, but the stands are still in place, and all the signs are still there.  There is a broken down float at the side of the road – not sure if it has been abandoned, or waiting for next year!  Another hot day – it is forecast for 32 degrees this weekend.

We check in to the Copacabana Palace.  Magical from the outside (although it reminds Paul of the Grand in Brighton and the bombing of Maggie Thatcher) and magical from the inside.  The only trouble is it is full of people.  And children.  It is heaving at the rafters.  We went to the pool to get a drink and decide what we are going to do for the next three days, and it is packed.  Oh dear.  I am used to space – here they have packed in as much as they can.  When we got back up to the room there was a lovely bottle of Moet Champagne on the table – with a card welcoming Mr Ballard.  Must have delivered it to the wrong room – sorry Mr Ballard, your loss is our gain.  Will enjoy that!

We went for a stroll along Copacabana Beach – it was completely dark now and the moon almost full.  The beach was transformed to a sports academy – football nets virtually the whole way along or volleyball.  There were hoards of youngsters and older people playing football – in an organised manner, not just higgledy piggeldy.  Can see some of the future Ronaldinho’s here.  We walked all the way along – people were displaying their wares, there was fast food places and candy floss for sale.  A glorified Blackpool – but with better weather.  All of the hotels had the same bland look from the outside – huge and impersonal.  I think we have the best of the bunch.  We stopped to have something to eat at one of the pavement cafes – pleasant enough but nothing special.  It was good to people watch.

When we got back to the hotel, the card that came with the champagne had been changed to one that said Mrs Bridget – must be for us then!  Won’t feel so guilty now!