South American Adventure - Day Fifteen, Thursday 6th March 2014

Our last morning at Awasi.  No more watching the condors twist their way upwards whilst having a shower, or waking up to the view of the three towers.  It really does look like Mordor – I expected Frodo Baggins to appear at any moment.  The last trip to breakfast – perhaps I won’t miss that.  The journey from our home to the main lodge, not the breakfast.  Twelve steep steps from the cabin to the road, a hundred yards upwards on the road, and then another hundred yards or so upwards on a steep gravel pathway.  Builds up the appetite!

No JP waiting to take us to the park – all a bit wrong somehow.  This morning is really chilly – the weather does seem to have changed.  The breakfast yet again was lovely.  Frederico, the Argentine Chef, came out as he does most meals to make sure the food is to our liking.  Not sure what he would do if we said no.  Most people have already left for the day, so only us to attend to.  Nothing else for it – I will have to go and pack.  The coat, that I have briefly put on once and really didn’t need, is going to the bottom of the case.  A kilo I could have saved.  And the hat and the gloves.  It doesn’t take long to put everything away, but it does feel rather sad to be doing so.

JP is driving us to Puerto Natales, and then we have another transfer company taking us from there to Punta Arenas for a one night stop before our flight tomorrow to Calama.  He is there – for the last time – as punctual as ever.  Awasi have even given him a packed lunch for us, and a little bag of chocolates for the journey.  They really do think of everything.  After everyone has come out to say their goodbyes, we start off for the two hour journey.  Puerto Natales is the nearest town to Awasi, albeit two hours away, so JP has a shopping list to bring back.  We start our usual commute, and two red foxes cross the road in front of us.  And back again.  This journey just never is boring.  We leave the mountains of the park behind – the weather does not look good there either.  The wind is blowing a gale, and it looks as if there is snow on the lower mountains.  It rained fairly heavily during the night, so the trails in the park are not going to be good first thing.

After about an hour we pass a little village called Cerro Castillo.  This is where Awasi have taken over a house for all the staff – there are up to fifty of them living there at any one time.  It looks a lovely country house – but quite a way to travel there and back every day.  Going towards Puerto Natales, the scenery changes from the mountains back to the flat.  When we arrive there, the Le Boreal is moored just offshore.  Must be one of their ports of call.  The car is waiting for us, so we transfer the luggage and set off for the three hour trip from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas.

The wind gets even worse on the way – the car is being blown around as the road is just next to wide open spaces both sides.  The driver doesn’t speak English – the only words Paul knows are Vino Tinto, so she just nods and stops at a place for him to get some.  I think the joke was lost in translation somewhat!  It had bathrooms though, so some use.  The heavens absolutely opened just before we arrived into Punto Arenas – the sea as we were coming in was so rough.  There were some poor road construction workers that were done up for the weather conditions.  I somehow don’t think this is unusual.  Punto Arenas seems very industrial – and large.  This looks like an important freight port, and all the industries associated with it.  I am sure there is a lovely town in there somewhere, but when we arrive at the hotel it is a case of making a dash for it before we are blown away and soaked.

We are staying at the Cabo de Hornos – a very respectable establishment for one night.  We have a corner room on the sixth floor, and when we get in the room the wind is whistling around the building making an awful racket.  Hopefully it will calm down!  The rain has stopped, so we decided to go out and get something to eat – and would you believe we needed the coats.  The one at the bottom of the very neatly packed case.  Oh well, at least we needed it once on the trip.  And the case is not neatly packed anymore.  It was like Antarctica outside – well, we are well on the way there.  One of my trips for the future – Paul said he will enjoy waving me off.  Seems I haven’t yet been able to persuade him to come! 

Nobody here speaks English.  None of those we met anyway.  We ended up in a semi fast food restaurant – the emphasis on food and not fast.   It had beer on the menu so that was good enough for Paul.  We had a couple of hamburgers, which weren’t actually too bad.  No fries – not sure why.  Perhaps they don’t go in for them here.  It certainly wasn’t Awasi standard, but it filled a hole.  Coming back Guns ‘n’ Roses were playing in the square – the CD rather than the group – at full blast.  And it was just below our window.  Oh what joy!  Wind or heavy metal?  Take your pick, or if you’re really lucky you can have both!

South American Adventure - Day Fourteen, Wednesday 5th March 2014

Paul had decided that we were going to go mountain biking this morning.  Sounds wonderful – not!  But, I had given him the choice here, so with a smile on my face I agreed to give it a go.  So, after another lovely breakfast JP brings the car around with four bikes on the back.  Macarena is driving again today – so we have a support vehicle.  Bit like the Tour de France.  We are going to cycle on the Estancia that the hotel is located on, so not far to go.  We stop at the little gaucho huts, but there is no-one home except a little black dog called Tequila.  What a little dear!  He was rescued by the gauchos from the river several weeks ago when he was very tiny – only a couple of weeks old.  The rest of the litter and the mother were never found – they think they either drowned or an eagle got the pups.  The staff from the hotel “adopted” him, and took him to their hostel where they all stay, and between them and inbetween their shifts and days off they weaned him and took care of him.  Now he is about ten weeks old, he has been given back to the gauchos for training – they knew the mother and she was a good working dog, so they think this one will be as well. 

He was so pleased to see Macarena and JP that he didn’t want to leave them, so he came with us the short distance in the car.  We stopped, got the bikes off the back and kitted up with helmets and gloves.  The wind decided to pick up at this point.  It was a little downhill to start, so that bit was easy.  Then there was a long, long uphill.  Not a steep uphill, but enough for my leg muscles to start complaining so I got off and walked.  Not exactly what Paul had in mind – he was way up ahead.  Oh dear – I think I might just give up and sit in the support vehicle.  At least that way Paul can get a good ride in.  When we got to the top of the hill, there was a dried up river bed to cross, and the wind had really picked up.  Paul decided that we would turn round and ride back – at least most of the way was downhill and the wind would be behind us.  We had been riding for about forty minutes (or walking in some cases!) so with the way back it would have been about an hour.  At least we can say that we tried.  Tequila was quite happy sitting in the car watching!

It was a fairly easy ride back, being mostly downhill and the wind pushing us.  The only small issued were avoiding the rocks and tree roots that were there to help you sail over the handle bars if you weren’t looking.  I did my best to avoid that – in fact we all did.  Paul decided to cycle back to the gaucho huts - uphill – show off!  We loaded the bikes back onto the back of the car, and decided to go back for a coffee, pick up a packed lunch, and go back to the park for a couple of short hikes.  Sounds like a plan – Tequila didn’t agree.  It didn’t include him.  No matter how we tried to leave him, he just came bounding up.  We had to take the car a little way down the hill, and JP took him back.  After a couple of false starts, he managed to get away.

We had a coffee, picked up the lunch and headed for another entrance to the park at Laguna Azul.  It was really windy now – the wind had been whistling around the car on the way.  A few kilometres inside the park entrance was a picnic spot – with a large inside room if it was windy.  It was, so we set up the picnic inside.  Just normal sandwiches today – but they were smoked salmon – and cakes and muffins and other bits and pieces.  Not bad for being knocked up in a few minutes!  This place also had cooking equipment in, tea and coffee, water – so for anyone that was caught short it was great.  We didn’t need any because we had out own (don’t think they ran to smoked salmon sandwiches!).

By the time we packed up, the wind had completely died.  The sun was out, and it was again a perfect day.  Macarena decided to come on the hike with us – it was a beautiful walk.  Up through the forest and along the side of the mountain, with the view of the lake and the three towers that we could see from our room.  The top of them was shrouded in cloud, but the sun was out so shone on the water and snow on the top of the mountains.  It wasn’t a long hike, probably an hour or so, but it was really pleasant.  Tee shirt weather again, and no wind.  JP said he had never known the weather to be so good three days on the trot.  Lucky, lucky, lucky!

We then drove a while to come to another lovely waterfall – Cascada Paine.  There was so much water coming down – it was really full today.  The sun must be melting the snow on the lower mountains.  The sun was shining on the spray, and in several places you could see a rainbow.  Another beautiful spot.  So many places, and hardly any other people.  Peaceful and beautiful.

We were driving from here, and came to Laguna Amarga – and there in the distance around the corner was the biggest flock of flamingos we had seen so far.  What a treat!  We pulled up to take some pictures, but the water was probably two hundred yards away from the road.  The bank didn’t look to bad to get down (not too sure about getting back up again, but not to worry about that yet) so Macarena and I climbed down to get a bit closer.  We edged closer, and the ones closest to us didn’t really like us being there, so started to swim towards the middle of the lake.  Some were still standing at the edge, so we got a bit closer and a bit closer.  One decided to take off, and then they all went.  Never seen a flock of flamingos fly before – it was fantastic.  Sorry to the other people that had just pulled up to get some pictures!  The bank this far down was easier to climb back up, so no rope needed to pull me in!

One thing left on the list then – the puma!  We had to give it one last go.  Macarena had seen one near to where their cave is, so we headed for there.  We pulled off the road, and drove down the grassy hill to as close to the cave as we thought we ought to get.  Then we got out and walked.  There were a few bones all around, but no puma.  It was just not to be today.  There was a carcass of a guanaco stripped clean, so they are here somewhere.  Probably in the bushes taking pictures of us!!

A lovely last day at Awasi.  It really is a fantastic experience – and having your own driver and guide you can do what you want, when you want, and change your mind if you so choose.  Otherwise we might have been mountain biking all day!  JP and Macarena joined us for dinner this evening – another good point to this hotel.  They know how to look after their staff as well as customers.  And – the bonus – my glasses turned up.  They have had a very circuitous route – Awasi to El Calafate back to Awasi (but not dropped off) back to El Calafate dropped off at Eolo Hotel (in El Calafate – why??) and then here.  Just in time!

South American Adventure - Day Thirteen, Tuesday 4th March 2014

Another fairly leisurely start – we are meeting JP at 9.30am so breakfast at 9.00am.  It is so tranquil here – even in the communal areas and dining areas.  Nothing is hurried.  It turns out the Manager here, Rosario, has a son that is the main chef at Sandals Ocho Rios – and she holidays there every year.  We compared notes!  The weather here has apparently been doing odd things.  For the whole of their summer, they have not had good weather.  There was snow here on and off until the middle of February – virtually unheard of.  For the last couple of weeks the weather has been lovely – just in time for their winter to start again in a couple of months.  Can’t complain.  One of the main issues in Patagonia is the wind – it can get up to 200km an hour, and causes all sorts of problems.  The trail that we walked yesterday can be too dangerous in parts (I can understand that!) to walk when the wind is up.  We haven’t really had that much wind since we have been here, so we have been really lucky.

We are not going to have such an arduous day today.  We first went to the park, via the normal commute, but to a different entrance.  The first trail we did was just by this entrance, to the Sarmiento Lake.  This is the main area where Pumas are sighted.  There are loads of guanacos about, so I should imagine no pumas at the moment.  This trail is nowhere near as demanding as yesterday, but I can still feel my muscles pulling a little on the uphills.  It was only about an hour, and down to the beautiful lake, and then back again.  We then moved on a little to Swan Lake.  I don’t think that is it’s real name, but it was full of swans.  And a very loud American bus pulled up – the bus and the passengers!  They left, and there was peace again. 

We then went on another lookout up a hill, where we could see the three horns – a mountain range that is on the front of the local beer, and the Paine Massif.  There is a glacier up there, and the top is covered in cloud.  It looks as if it is snowing on the top.  We then went to a trail that took us to Salto Grande – the largest of the waterfalls in the park. This one definitely shuts in bad weather.  There have been two mini buses full of passengers tipped over with the wind.  A metal sign with writing on both sides is completely obliterated on one side where the wind has picked up the stones and pebble dashed it clean.  The falls were not exactly Niagara, but it was bigger than I anticipated.  There were some rapids over rocks, before bottlenecking into the fall to the lower level lake.  When the sun was out, there was a rainbow in the spray.  We finished the walk here, and then drove to a campsite for lunch.

Lunch today was in a cool box rather than a back pack.  There were little hut like things with picnic tables under and outside – mostly empty.  We chose one, and parked the car next to it.  JP then put a tablecloth on the picnic table, and got out red wine and glasses.  That’s Paul’s lunch taken care of!  He then put on surgical gloves – I wondered what was going to happen next!!  He got out a bag of cheese, and started to cut it.  Phew!  We also had smoked salmon, salad, quinoa salad and pea soup.  This is the sort of picnic I like.  Cookies and muffins to follow – although Paul thought they were more like buns, so now PJ knows a new word.  Not sure if the chef will be happy with him calling them buns to other guests though.

With that packed up and out of the way, we continued around Lake Pehoe.  It was really scenic, and was turning out to be another beautiful day.  We then did another trail to Salto Chico – the small water falls.  They were not as large as the other one, but still very picturesque.  A couple of condors flew in and sat on the mountain opposite.  They are very graceful creatures, and I haven’t got a really good picture of one yet.  This was as close as I was going to get, as they seemed to put their feet up and switch the TV on.  Didn’t seem as they were going to move from there for a while.  We continued past the waterfall and around the lake.  There were a couple of steamer ducks just bobbing about in the peace and quiet.  Don’t blame them.  Back to the car, and it was time to head off back to the hotel.  Along the way we stopped to take a photo of the Paine Massif with a rain shower in front of it – the sun was shining on the water and it looked fascinating.  All the way home we were keeping our eyes out for pumas – not a lot of chance seeing them at this time of day though – usually early in the morning or last thing at night.  You never know!  I do now.  We aren’t going to see one!

This dinner thing here is getting quite boring.  The food is so good day after day.  Nothing to complain about.  Tonight was scallops – one of the best scallop dishes I have ever tasted – and Patagonian Salmon.  Superb.  Paul had meat that you could cut with a spoon.  Lovely – but I feel we could get used to this, and it is going to come hard when we have to leave it all behind!

South American Adventure - Day Twelve, Monday 3rd March 2014

We had chosen a departure time of 9.00am for the hike to Las Torres today.  Paul had left the window shutters open, so we could wake up to that magnificent view.  A good view to wake up to on your birthday – Happy Birthday Paul.  I hope you like your present!  A leisurely breakfast – everything cooked to order, of course!

JP was waiting for us when we had finished – today we had a driver as well as a guide.  Macarena – JP’s girlfriend.  Apparently this is the most demanding trail in the park,  and it helps if the guides don’t have to drive back.  Ha!  If he is going to be knackered what is that going to make us?  He made sure we had coats, poles, etc etc before we set off.  It took a little under an hour to get to the start of the trail.  We had to leave the hotel, go on some little back roads, race a couple of choiques, clear away a few guanacos and then take the 4 x 4 along a bit of a river to cross to the other side.  The normal commute to work then!  We passed a huge lake with a flock of flamingos having their breakfast – will take a picture of them on the way back.  We got the tickets for the National Park (all taken care of by Awasi) and drove to the start of the trail, which was at the back of the Hotel Las Torres.  We passed Bastian, the waiter we met yesterday at lunch.  It was his last day as he was heading back to university, but he is obviously going to do the same trail as us before he leaves this part of the country.  He was hitch hiking.

At the start of the trail, it was quite flat.  There was a small gradient going down – in the back of my mind I was thinking I bet I’m not going to like this coming back.  It is a straight there and back trail, rather than a circular one.  There is a circular one, but that takes about six days.  Think we will stick to the there and back!  One of the first things we had to do was to cross a river on a wibbly wobbly bridge.  I have been here before – it was like ground hog day.  We went across one at a time, as it was a bit flimsy – there was a flimsy bit of wire to hold you in if it tipped – not!  No problem, we all got across fine.  I somehow didn’t think this was going to be the last of my flash backs.

PJ said that the first bit of the trail he put into three sections – the easy, the bit harder, and the harder still.  Then we go down (I hate that, can’t see the point because we are going to have to come up again) and then we go up through a forest bit, and then it gets really steep up to the top.  It’s Paul’s birthday – he chose the trail, he can choose to go as far as he wants.  We started the first bit – PJ’s easy bit – and my legs felt like lead.  Why hadn’t I done a bit more training?  Why hadn’t I lost some weight?  Why was I here???  The first bit conquered, we started the second bit.  Bastian came up behind us, with two jackets on and a hood.  I was sweating buckets with just my tee shirt.  He literally bounced past – don’t think he will have any issues getting to the top.  I had my camera, so it is really good to stop to take some pictures and get your breath back.  It was quite overcast this morning, excellent weather for hiking.  This second bit had some tricky sections – there was a lot of loose gravely stuff that meant you went up and slid back down again if you weren’t careful.  Most people, as usual, were passing us.  Some coming the other way looked like I felt – their faces were bathed in sweat, and they looked as if they had just ran a marathon.  I had only just started!  Paul thought he saw a sun bed on the side of the next mountain – could have done with that here.  It was only a couple of pieces wood that just looked that shape.  Somehow don’t think I am going to find one today.

We then got to the third bit.  This was, as PJ predicted, harder.  At one point there was a sign that stated there were “rolling stones” coming down the mountain on my left (with the big lips and tongue on the sign as well – someone has a sense of humour) a sheer drop on my right, and horse poo on the twelve inch or so path to walk on.  Am I really paying for this??  Horses have right of way on the paths – just hope I don’t meet one.  They have mostly separate paths, but on occasions they are the same one.  A couple of gauchos passed us, music blaring.  Suppose this is the equivalent of a Subaru in our country!  This bit really was like being back in the Himalayas.  Great big rocks to get up, tree roots to contend with, and a never ending upward slope.  The trouble is with an up and down trail, the further you go, the further you have come back.  Every step I was taking, I knew I had got to do it all again in reverse.

We rounded a corner, and got a fairly good view of the top of the mountain and the three towers.  Now we had to go down.  And up.  And down.  A couple more streams to cross, some with bits of wood across to help, some with stepping stones.  Oh, how I remember it well.  After about two and a half hours of trekking, we came to a Refuge – a bit like the tea houses in Nepal, but here you can only pitch your tent.  There were quite a few tents pitched – I could have done with a lie down!  PJ decided here was a good place for lunch – it was just gone 1.00pm.  He had brought it with him in this backpack.  We had cauliflower soup – it was lovely.  Sandwiches, cookies, muffins, fresh fruit – all prepared by the chef.  Unfortunately we had to share it with about a hundred mosquitoes.  Glad I brought the insect repellent.  Shame I had left it in the room.  I didn’t expect mosquitoes here – I thought it was going to be far too cold for them.  As it was, it was rather warm.  PJ gave us what looked like a white tablet in a cellophane wrapper. “Pour water on it, and you can wash your hands” he said.  Like magic, when you poured water onto the “tablet” it expanded into a material like cloth to wash your hands and face.  Never seen one of them before.

Paul decided that he wanted to go on – he actually wanted to get to the top.  I tried to keep the look of horror off my face.  It’s his birthday – he can choose.  Those words were coming back to haunt me.  The next section was uphill through the forest.  It was quite pleasant, as it wasn’t as hot in here.  But it was still uphill – and we weren’t anywhere near the steep bit yet!  After about another forty minutes Paul asked when we would be able to get another view of the top and the towers.  The answer was not until we hit the summit – at least another two or three hours upward at our pace.  I was wondering if I should find a nice tree to sit underneath and wait for them to come back down – I was sure that my muscles were not going to last the duration.  Paul had a think, and decided that he wouldn’t make it to the top.  He decided to head back down – good man!  Going down sounds easier than going up, but it has its pitfalls.  The loose gravel going up is still loose going down, and the big steps over the rocks going up and sometimes easier thajn the big drops going down.  Good job JP was there to give a helping hand!  I think his initials should be short for Just Perfect. 

We got back to the Refuge, and then headed straight back out for the down and up and down and up bit.  The sun had now come out, and it was so hot on my back.  Thank god it hadn’t been this hot when we were coming up – not sure I would have made it this far.  I think my muscles thought that I was doing a giant snow plough all the way down the mountain.  With steep terrain, and loose gravel, if you start to gain momentum you are not going to stop.  I saw a few people come to grief on the gravel – I did not want to be the next one.  Hence the muscles screaming as I had the brakes on most of the way down.  We drank plenty of water – we refilled the bottles in a stream.  We really needed it – it was hot hot hot.  There were a couple of condors gliding high in the sky – very graceful birds.  At around 4.30pm we were in sight of the finishing line.  Just that hill to get up that we had gone down to start with.  “This is nothing” says Paul striding up it.  My legs beg to differ!  It was as I predicted – I did not like it at all.  But, we made it up to the top, and over to the 4 x 4 where Macarena had cold beers and drinks.  Perfect.  We made our way back to Awasi, and stopped to take a picture of the flamingos, but they were not there.  I seem to remember this happening before.  Next time I see a flamingo, I am going to take it’s picture there and then.

A reverse commute to get back to Awasi and the hot tub beckons.  Only trouble is the fire wasn’t lit early enough, and it still needs another hour to heat up properly.  Not an issue for Paul – another beer and he won’t even be able to tell what temperature it was.  A plate of jam at the side for the wasps, and he is well away!

My glasses have apparently been found in the back of the car that brought us here, and should have been dropped off this afternoon with another lot of guests.  After another fabulous dinner – Michelin star standard I believe – Paul gets a lovely birthday cake with candles on!  All the room sing happy birthday – and I think he wants to crawl under the table!  My glasses haven’t come though.  So, I continue to read menus and kindles with my tinted glasses – looking like either a cool dude or a plonker!

South American Adventure - Day Eleven, Sunday 2nd March 2014

Early start again this morning, as we are being picked up and driving to Torres del Paine in Chile.  After a quick breakfast, we checked out of the hotel.  The driver was on time!  We left the hotel at 8.00am, for what he said (in the little English that he had) was a four hour drive.  We started off in part cloudy weather, but it soon changed into glorious sunshine.  The road was good, and there was little else in the way of traffic once we had left El Calafate.

We had a spectacular view of the Andes at one point.  We stopped to take a picture.  He was explaining something about the mountains – it didn’t seem to hamper him that we could understand nothing.  Just smile and nod!  We continued our journey south west, and the flat lands that we had got used to changed into rolling hills.  The wildlife didn’t change – still choiques, guanacos and sheep.  A little further on, and there were birds of prey just sitting in a line on the fence poles watching us go past – one after the other.  There was a condor just gliding next to the car for several seconds.

We turned off the remote open road and after one hundred yards or so there was a petrol station – with loads of people milling about.  There were a couple of locals with stalls selling souvenirs, and a bus full of a local football team – the Defensores, or so it said on their backs.  Where did they all come from? 

We set off again, and after a couple of hours, we turned onto a small gravel road.  It turns out this was the road that the border crossing was on.  Nothing more than a farm track.  At the first part, we had to leave Argentina.  We took our passports in to a wooden shack.  One queue was for people coming in, and one queue for people going out.  Luckily, ours was the shortest queue.  The Argentinian Army was in charge here – the 43^rd Squadron or something.  My passport was stamped quickly, and Paul handed his over.  Lopez (or so it said on his lapel) said something to Paul.  He thought there was a problem – but he was actually wishing him Happy Birthday for tomorrow!  Thought I might have had to have gone on without him there.  We then had to drive a mile or so through no man’s land.  We then came to some more buildings, where we had to get out with our passports again.  The driver had given us some forms to fill in to get into Chile – this was where they had to be stamped.  Just before us a bus had pulled up – and the whole bus load was in the queue before us.  Quite a wait.  Nobody turned up behind us, not even after we had had the passports stamped.  Just bad luck.  I had noticed that everyone was having their luggage scanned.  The driver went back and got our suitcases, and then the hand luggage.  He brought my handbag with everything hanging out the top where I had just fudged about and got my passport out.  Bloody hell!  We got through no problem, the car was checked by the immigration people, and we made our way out onto the road again.  There was a proper road for a while – well, a road with large pot holes in.  They all had a lovely large ring of white paint around them, so someone knew they were there.  Just didn’t want to fix them I suppose.

We turned off onto a gravel road again after a few minutes – you could see how much traffic was up ahead as there was a cloud of dust following any vehicle.  Just a couple of cars, and we soon lost them.  After a while he turned off onto another gravel road, and had to stop and open a gate.  Looked as if we were going into someone’s property, but there was no sign.  We could be being kidnapped I suppose.  How many security checks did we do when we got into the car?  None.  We weren’t.  After twenty or so minutes of travelling upwards, with the most glorious view of the mountains to our left, I could see some cabin like properties up ahead.  This was Awasi – the extravagance of this trip.  Or Paul’s birthday present.  No looking on the internet for something the night before this year for me!  He did ask earlier whether I had been mistaken and booked a tent in a field.  I assured him not.

Wow!  This place is something else.  We were welcomed by Ximona, the general manager and JP, who is to be our guide for the time we are here.  Lunch was on the menu first, and what a view from our table.  Then I noticed that my glasses were not in my bag.  They must have fell out when the driver pulled my bag out of the car at the border crossing.  This is the second pair I have lost on this trip – Paul reckoned the guanacos at
Rincon Chica had the first pair.  They disappeared into thin air.  I have never lost a pair of glassed before – now I have lost two!  There are only twelve cabins here, and everyone else was out for the day.  The food was excellent – I think I may have to worry about my calorie intake here.  King Crab salad to start, conga risotto, and crème brulee was served after we had been met with mate (the local hollybush tea) and cookies.  Just about managed it – I think we are going to have work hard here to build up an appetite! 

We then had a briefing with JP as to what and where we would like to go over the next four days.  It turns out that he has had a few days off, and had been to El Calafate with his girlfriend.  We were at Perito Moreno on the same day!  He didn’t see the big collapse, so Paul had much glee showing him his video of it.  Paul said he wanted to trek the big mountain (!) so that is on the cards for tomorrow.  Then we will do some small trails, and then mountain biking.  Horses were mentioned, but brushed aside!  The weather forecast for the next few days is good – perfect for trekking.  Not sure about us though – would probably call us overcast at the very least, but we will see.

Next we were shown to our villa.  They are all separate cabins, none overlooking the others.  The view is magnificent – the picture above is what we wake up to.  The last time we had a view like this was in the Himalayas, but then we had a hole for a toilet and were sleeping on a slab of concrete in a sleeping bag.  Not quite like this.  There is a huge living area with sofas, and a fully stocked mini bar and coffee machine with windows all the way round on all sides.  Our bags had been unpacked by the time we got to our villa – Paul saw some walking poles just be the front door and said he had some just like those!  They were his!!  The bathroom was ultra luxurious, with robes and the softest towels.   The hot tub was being stoked up – literally.  There is a fire under the hot tub, and it had been lit ready for our arrival.  There was a little hot tub kit in a basket, with slippers and towels etc, to use for going out.  It is going to be hard staying here!

Sitting in the hot tub felt a bit like a missionary must have felt like being boiled ready to be eaten by the cannibals.  The fire was underneath heating up the water, and there we were sitting in it.  The view though was amazing – right down through the valley to the lake and the mountains.  There were cows all around, noisily chomping away on the grass, birds making a racket and a few wasps buzzing about.  They seemed to take a liking to his red wine, so he donated it!  Better that than us.  I think there might be a nest around, as there were quite a few.  Paul got very good at swishing the water at them – then they just went away.  Perhaps someone in a nearby hot tub had something better than red wine to tempt them with.

The cows are all over the place – on the way to dinner (we are in the cabin furthest away from the main cabin) the path seemed to have a few additions of fresh cow poo.  There is a torch on the key, so will have to make sure that is used to find a way through without treading in anything untoward in the dark.  The food, unsurprisingly, was superb for dinner.  So well presented, and in small proportions.   The chef introduced himself – he is from Argentina – and said he would cook whatever we wanted.  We’ll see if we make it back in one piece tomorrow – or if we are in a fit state to eat!!

South American Adventure - Day Ten, Saturday 1st March 2014

Paul compared the holiday today to boot camp.  The alarm went off at 6.00am – normal time to get up for me.  Boot camp would be more like 4.00am – it could be arranged……  We are being collected at 7.15am for our “All Glacier Navigation” tour.  I think by the end of today, I will be all glaciered out.  But as we are here..  As usual, the pick up came at 7.30am – the one day we are late the pick up will be on time!  We were again one of the last to be picked up, and the mini bus was full.  We met the same English couple as yesterday – these must be the two “to do” tours here.  “I read your blog last night”  she says.  “I will have to be careful what I say to you today!”  Oh my god – I definitely will have to think carefully what I say if people we meet on the way are reading it!  Ha ha.  I wonder how many people I have upset already over the last few years.

The journey to the port took around forty minutes.  When I first knew the size of the boat – it takes around 200 people – there was probably a look of horror on my face.  We were told that we could upgrade – and as one does – we did.  Business class on the boat.  If you have to go on a boat with 200 people, it is best if you don’t have to sit with them!  We didn’t get any special treatment at the start though – this was not the only boat going.  There were probably in the range of three to four hundred people queuing to get onto the jetty where the boat went from.  We had our national park tickets already paid for in advance with the tour.  If you don’t have them, you have to queue at a little hut to get them.  Not everyone was aware they had to do this, so they walked all the way down to the jetty, only to have to walk all the way to get the ticket.

Once we were on board we had the “Captain’s Club”.  We were shown upstairs to the front of the catamaran to a separate lounge area where the captain drives the boat.  There were sixteen lovely comfortable business class style seats.  If  I have to spend all day on a boat, this isn’t a bad way to do it.  All sixteen seats were full – they cost 300 pesos extra per person, but included all the tea, coffee, chocolate, wine, beer etc that you wanted.  That was Paul sorted out for the day!  Our steward was Juan, and he looked after us very well.

We set off, firstly heading to the Upsala Glacier.  This is one of the largest in the Los Glaciars National Park.  It took around an hour and a half to get there, and on  the way we were given croissants as well.  Very civilised.  We had to go through the narrowest part of Lake Argentina to get there, so I decided to go downstairs and out to the front of the boat.  I stood at the front, and remembered the last time I was on a boat I had decided that a fleece was fine and didn’t take my jacket, hat and gloves.  That was a mistake then, and here I was standing in the wind in only my fleece and thinking why have I done this again?  Plonker.  Down here, there were hoards of people – albeit rather more sensibly dressed!  As we approached the glacier, there were large and small icebergs.  Some huge.  Hope the captain is looking where he is going!  Most people then decided to do their Titanic impression and have their photograph taken at the front of the ship with their arms outstretched.  After the two hundredth person, I was getting a bit fed up of elbows in my face.  One chap had to have one taken with his camera, then his video camera, then his ipad.  Not sure how he had enough hands to carry them all.

This glacier may have been bigger than the Perito Mereno yesterday, but it hadn’t have the wall of ice that stands proud from the water.  It just comes down like a river to the lake.  Very impressive though – although no great big collapses like yesterday.  That is going to take some beating!  We then moved on to the next glacier – Spegazinni – which took around twenty minutes to get to.  This was similar to Perito Moreno, with a high wall of ice.  I went back upstairs – there were a couple of doors that opened to the outside from up there, so decided I wouldn’t brave the hoards again.  At least upstairs there will only be another fifteen pairs of elbows to contend with!  It was a really good view – and nowhere near as cold, as you could jump in and out very easily to warm up.  It was actually only when we were sailing that it was cold.  When we were at the glaciers or going slowly along the front of them it was beautiful.  The sun was shining again – we have been really lucky with the weather.

After we left this glacier, we have a two hour trip to get to Perito Moreno – the last glacier on the schedule.  Juan brought sandwiches round – went very well with the ham and cheese roll I had in my camera bag that I made at breakfast.  I haven’t done that before – it was a last minute thought that we were on the boat all day with nothing to eat!  Nobody seemed to mind – in actual fact I don’t know if they even noticed we were there.  As I said, backpackers can get a free breakfast!  The sun was beating down through the windows, and the lake was so calm – it all combined to make a half hours snooze unavoidable!  This is a very easy way to spend a day.

The last glacier was Perito Moreno again.  This one is the most famous not only because of its accessability, but because of the dramatic pieces that come away.  As we were approaching, we could see the walkways that we had been on yesterday.  We sailed up the within a couple of hundred yards at one point of the glacier wall.  I remember seeing a sign by one of the walkways yesterday saying that several people had been killed by the falling ice because they were too close to the edge.  I think the walkways had all been moved back to prevent this happening.  I am sure we have quite a quick reverse speed if needed!  But alas, even though we spent another half an hour or so sailing up and down the face of the glacier, there were only minor collapses.  There were several ooohs and aaaahs – it was spectacular to some.  But it all has to be put in perspective – we saw a massive collapse yesterday, and dribs and drabs like this are not going to cut the mustard anymore.

We left the glacier for the hour or so to get back to the port, and I feel that I am now glaciered out.  Yesterday was amazing, and if I had to choose between the two tours I would have chosen yesterdays every time.  This one was good, and if we hadn’t done yesterday I would have enjoyed it more I think.  But, for me, it was again a little too sedate.  I would definitely recommend paying the extra to get the better seats and all that comes with it.  It really was a bun fight trying to take pictures downstairs.  We were met by the minibus after disembarking, and taken back to the hotel for our last evening in El Calafate.

We tried the town again tonight for something to eat.  We chose a restaurant and decided to have lamb – it is apparently good here.  Even after a pint of campari (that is how it came, not how much I ordered!) it still tasted as if it had been cooking since last Christmas.  Paul’s dish wasn’t too bad.  We had passed an ice cream parlour – Tito’s - on the way, so decided to get pudding there.  Only about forty flavours to choose from!  At least I am managing to get some calories (ha ha, as if I need them!).

South American Adventure - Day Nine, Friday 28th February 2014

We had a quite relaxed start to the day – only had to get up at 8.00am this morning.  We crossed the road to get to the breakfast room – we were just welcomed in, no room number checked or asked our names.  Backpackers – if you want a complimentary breakfast just go to the Hotel Posada Los Alamos!  It filled a hole – Maria’s name is going to be coming up quite a bit feel in the next few weeks!  The minibus was picking us up at 9.00am for our trip today to the Perito Moreno Glacier.  It duly came at 9.15am (we come to expect this now, we are in the land of manyana) – there were three other couples already on – not too bad.  We had one more hotel to pick up from though – would you believe a family with a child!  A small one at that.  Nor a quiet one.  The couple in front of us said that they were on their flight yesterday, and he ran up and down the aisle all the way from Buenos Aires.  Oh, what joy!

We left El Calafate for the 80 kilometre journey to the glacier.  On the way out there was a huge lake that had hundreds of ducks and swans and flamingos on.  Didn’t expect to see any flamingos here.  The scenery along the way was superb – the Andes were just about in view with their snow covered tops.  We stopped at one point so that the guide could show us the Calafate Bush.  Novel – getting out of a bus to look at a bush.  Normally have to get out of a bus and find a bush to pee behind! 

We had to enter a National Park about 50 kilometres out, which is where the glacier is.  The 130 peso fee to get into the park was included in our tour – but someone had to get on the bus and take everyone’s ticket, stamp it, and give it back to them.  Makes a job for someone I suppose.  We then snaked our way upwards, and stopped at a look out on the way.  From here, we could see the lake and the massive glacier that looked as though it was falling between the mountains and had just come to a full stop at the bottom.  The wall of ice was around sixty metres high, with a further eighty to one hundred and twenty metres below the surface of the lake.  Impressive.

We drove on a further few miles, and dropped off the Japanese group and the family (phew) at the “port” for them to have a boat trip.  We went onwards to the actual glacier.  We had four hours here – I thought at the time quite a long time.  There was a café at the top, so we bought a bottle of water and then headed down the fingers of walkways from the top, down through the forest.  It was amazing, and so well laid out.  There were many, many steps, but seats and look outs all along the way.  Every now and then you could hear a crack like a whip, and then a sound like rolling thunder.  We then realised what it was.  When little parts of the ice break off the main glacier it makes a cracking sound, and then when it hits the water it is like thunder.  A huge outward ripple is made in the water, and then the blob of ice bobs back up to the top.  It was amazing to watch.  The walkways were colour coded, so if you just wanted to do a gentle walk you stuck to yellow, red was harder with more steps and orange was medium.

We walked down the red first, which took us to the south face of the glacier.  The perimeter that was facing the lake was around five kilometres long – the rest wedged between the mountains.  What fantastic photos – I have a feeling I may be looking at next years Travel Stop Christmas Card!  Pieces were breaking off every twenty minutes or so – you just had to be looking in the right direction, because once you heard the noise it had already happened.  It was another glorious day – in the early twenties I would imagine.  Who would think that you could be stood next to this much ice wearing at tee shirt.

We went back up to the café for a cup of tea, and then decided to do the orange route as the finale.  We walked down and to the right, on the south face of the glacier.  It was much quieter down here, and we found an area called the “North Balcony” that had a seat, was a lovely sun trap from the wind, and we were all on our own.  Peace.  There was no noise, just us.  I said to Paul that I thought there was a big bit just in front of us that looked as if it might break off.  He said that wouldn’t go for weeks.  Then there was an almighty roar.  From the little snowball like size bits of ice that were coming from the top just in front of us, the whole sheer face of the glacier came crashing down.  What a spectacular sight!  Paul’s battery on his camera was just about to give out, but he managed to video most of it.  It was sheer luck that I was looking at it, and managed to take stills from the tiny snowball start to the whole thing crashing into the lake.  Wow!

We made our way back to the top to meet the guide and the rest of the group.  “Did you see that” she said.  “That was a unique event – never seen that before”.  The English couple said they were in the café at the time, and heard it from in there.  How lucky were we??  Extremely, I would say.  We then started to make our way back to El Calafate, so happy.  We got dropped off a mile or so before we got back to town, so that we could walk along the shores of the lake and see the flamingos.  There were four or five not far from the shore, but the main flock was a few hundred yards out.  Did they not know we were coming?  We had a good walk though, and there were so many ducks and swans in the lake it was still lovely to look at.  Got a bit lost going back to the hotel – it seemed very easy when we left this morning!  Not too lost – Paul have the aforethought to put the hotel note pad in his pocket (not sure why) and just showed some bar tender and he pointed in the right direction.  Time for a cocktail I believe! And to review a few photos and videos!!