Australia - Heron Island

We flew from Brisbane to Gladstone for our week on Heron Island with my daughter, her partner, the twelve year old daughter of her ex husband and her six year old daughter. Complicated! This was just over an hours flight, on a fairly small de Havilland plane. When we arrived at Gladstone, a tiny little airport on the Queensland coast, we had a transfer bus to the port, and then a launch over to Heron. The Heron Islander is a catamaran, that holds probably just over one hundred people. Today, it was less than half full. This is the only way to get over to the island, apart from a helicopter transfer. Heron Island time is an hour ahead of Queensland time, so watches had to be put forward one hour.



Unfortunately, the good weather we had been experiencing up to now had not followed us. The clouds got heavier and greyer, and by the time we boarded the boat at 11.30am it was looking and feeling very rough. The wind had got up to 30 knots per hour. To start with, the rocking of the launch was a bit of fun. Slowly but surely nearly all of the passengers succumbed to having to aim carefully into the little white sick bags that were scattered liberally around the place. I think there was probably three or four people that weren’t ill, and by the time we reached the island just under two hours later, there were a few white and green faces. Didn’t affect me at all much to Paul’s disgust! The staff on the ship were very good, mainly going round to all the tables collecting full bags and disposing of them. If I can say one good thing, there were loads of sick bags, so at least if you were ill it was quickly taken from you so that you didn’t have to look and smell what you had that morning for breakfast! The weather was absolutely appalling. When we left the launch, the rain was lashing down and the wind was howling. This was not what I had ordered for our week of relaxation!



We were shown into the Wistari Room – which was used in wet weather for the showing of films as they had a large screen. We had a lovely cold drink – could have done with a hot chocolate at this point though – before going to the Shearwater Restaurant for a late lunch. We all tucked into the buffet lunch – most had recovered from the boat trauma quite quickly – except Paul. He really did suffer on the way over. At the first sign of the rough weather he took himself out on deck, and stayed there for the whole two hours. When we arrived, we did wonder if he was still going to be there, as the boat had lurched from side to side it was hard to see how anyone could still be standing. But he was, albeit dripping from head to foot, and with a look that said “you know I don’t travel well”. Not my fault! He took himself immediately to the room to have a hot shower and change out of his soaking clothes and to generally feel sorry for himself. He soon got over it!



The week at Heron was certainly a week of two halves. From the Sunday to the Thursday lunchtime it was awful weather. Cold, wet and windy. It was so windy that the dive boat didn’t go out, and when it did, the visibility was so poor and the sea so rough it wasn’t enjoyable. I didn’t partake until Wednesday morning when the wind had dropped a little. There are regular information walks each day – Bird Walk, Reef Walk, Research Station Walk, Island Walk and Star Gazing – the latter not happening due to the lack of stars! Each lasts around an hour, and has a guide telling all about the subject. We did the Bird Walk on the first day – during a spell of drier weather. The bird life on the island may not be extensively varied, but is certainly extensive. The amount of Shearwaters and Egrets alone are huge. There was always three or four outside of our house every morning, or walking around the bar or other areas. And very tame as well. They do like pinching your food or drink if you don’t have your wits about you.



There is also a very extensive Research Station on the island. It was the very first to be set up in this area many years ago, but burned down a few years ago and was rebuilt with state of the art equipment. It houses around ten full time staff, with up to one hundred students or other research bodies at a time on various projects. Their work on turtles and global warming of the seas is extremely valuable. With the Research Station walk, we were only walked around the outside of the buildings, but it was really interesting to hear about what they do there. They are on Queensland time, so half of this tiny little island is out of kilter with the other half by an hour!



The Island Walk consisted of walking half way around the island by way of the beach, and then cutting back though the forest. It was explained that the island was fairly unique in that it was never part of the mainland, but was a totally coral cay. Over the years, the way that the teardrop shaped reef has formed the island is by the wind and tides putting all of the corals into the small bit of the teardrop. Over thousands of years, the island has been building up very slowly, until it is as it is now. A limited amount of vegetation can grow on islands such as these – but looking at this island now it is very well established. Only the hardiest of plants and trees can withstand the low levels of nutrients in the soil, and these are the ones that have taken root. Very interesting. We also learned that the island had its own desalination plant that turned sea water into drinking water, as it uses over 100,000 litres of water a day to run the resort.



Georgina, my six year old granddaughter, joined the Junior Rangers programme. This was held between 11am and 12am each day, as well as 3.30pm to 5pm. Each session was on a different subject, learning all about the island, its fish, birds, plant life as well as other general topics. Each subject was in a workbook, which, when finished, meant that she got her badge. If she completed all of the subjects, which she did, she got her Junior Rangers badge. She did really well, and is now officially a Heron Island Junior Ranger. What a good idea – it is educational and fun. All of the guides on this and all of the walks are marine biologists with an extensive knowledge of the island and its workings.



The reef, as I explained before, goes all around the island, but is closer in some points than others. The tide is about 2 metres in height between low and high tide, and on the low tide the water is only a maximum of knee high for about half a mile in parts of the island. This is when you can do the Reef Walk. The guide will point out all of the creatures that can be seen that live on the reef, as well as the fish that swim around here. It is not a game of chance – the reef is so full of living creatures it is like looking in a fish tank. There are star fish and sea cucumbers everywhere you look. Take a step, and there is one type of fish or another. It is absolutely amazing. At high tide, this is when snorkelling takes over. And the fish then are in their thousands. All different types, from the tiniest to large rays and reef sharks. It isn’t an odd occasion that you will see the larger fish either – just walking along the beach at high tide you can see the shapes of the rays swimming just metres from the shore, or a sharks fin patrolling the area with thousands of small fish jumping out of the water so they don’t become dinner!



By Wednesday I had taken the decision to start diving – Paul had decided to see if I came back alive before he made that bold move though! I made my first dive on a cloudy, but not too windy morning. The visibility could have been better, but it wasn’t too bad. The underwater world that came into view though was worth it. The coral was fantastic and the fish were so plentiful and varied. I saw the biggest turtle that I have ever seen – it was huge. Around two metres in length I would say – but who knows, my judgement on size might be a bit out. I really must swat up on my fish species, because I know what I see but have no idea what they are called. I know the Nemo clown fish, but not a lot else. Take my word for it – this is one of the best places in the world that I have dived in.



With that knowledge, Paul decided that he would have a go too. So on Thursday we both dived. We saw a fairly large shark, and then saw a school of four rays majestically swimming past. I can’t put into words how magical that actually feels. He was glad that he “took the plunge” – excuse the pun – as he agreed that it was fantastic diving. He had dived in Cairns on a previous trip, and said that this was so much better in comparison.



Thursday was the start of the second half of the week – in more ways than one. The first thing that happened was that the desalination plant broke down. When we got back from the mornings dive at 12.45pm, we were told that there was no water on the island, and we were free to leave should we choose to. The launch was leaving at 2.00pm, so not a lot of chance of that. Also, where would we stay? With the breakdown of the plant also came the arrival of the sun. Everything looked so much more idyllic with the sun shining on it. Even if we had just dived and got a lovely salt water layer on our skin and no way of getting rid of it. No water to shower, wash, or flush the toilets in the public toilets.



We had a conference about staying or going the next day, and decided that we would stick it out. Unfortunately, the water plant was broken until at least Saturday. Memories of our Nepal trip and no showers came to mind – at least everyone was in the same boat here as well. We were issued with bottled water to clean our teeth with – and I had a few wipes that would suffice for washing. I know a few teenagers that would relish the fact that they didn’t have to wash! On Thursday evening the toilet in our house gave up the ghost – even though the toilets were supposed to be on a different system so that they could keep going with sea water being pumped into them. Paul, as always the boy scout, utilised the waster paper bin and made regular journeys to the sea to fill it up to flush the toilet. OK when the tide was in, but a bit of a trek when it was out – and quite hazardous at night if the tide was out as there were rocks and coral to contend with before getting to the wet stuff.



The island was not taking any new arrivals at this point, as they couldn’t provide a full restaurant service, as they couldn’t do any washing up. Any food that used water in the preparation was either very limited or not on offer. We had plastic knives and forks to eat with, and were “issued” with one plate per person. The food did get very repetitive. To be honest, the food was very average to start with compared to what we had been used to. I think that this is probably a little unfair, as the food we had for the previous three and half weeks was exceptional, but I wonder if I would have thought that anyway. No laundry could be done either, so we got no clean sheets or towels – by Saturday they were nearly standing up on their own! The public toilets closed, as they were disgusting.



The staff seemed to be mainly young people with no real direction. They were all friendly enough, but seemed to lack initiative to give a good service. Many of them had only been on the island for a few weeks, or even days, and there didn’t seem to be a maitre d’ to take charge. That wouldn’t have happened if Gabor had been here. Things would be running like clockwork!



The sun, once it had shown itself, did not go away. The whole of Friday, Saturday and Sunday was absolutely perfect weather. It was probably in the high twenties centigrade, with the wind dropping to a whisper. Paul had been checking the wind speeds every day – he was determined not to go back on the launch if the weather was in any way going to be inclement. The forecast for Sunday was 10 knots, and another beautiful sunny day, so decided to risk it by sea. With the option to change to helicopter should anything not happen as it was supposed to!



The island took on a whole new look with the changed weather. Our loungers from our balcony were moved to the beach – we had a wooden walkway from our balcony to the beach which was under tree canopy. It was an absolutely ideal spot. Each morning I would take my camera and sit on the lounger and take photos of all the wildlife – birds and fish, both were plentiful. It was also so peaceful. I think the island was running at about 37% occupancy, as many had decided to leave and no new arrivals had come since Wednesday. Perfect! Had we been able to shower, had clean linen and good food,



On Saturday after our last dive we took a walk all around the island by beach. If we had walked briskly I think it would have probably taken us about twenty minutes. We wandered, looking at all the rays and sharks – and a creature that had a sharks face and a rays middle and back. Weird. There were heaps of them. Then a sharks fin came up, and chased big fish that were chasing little fish and the whole ocean came alive. What an experience to see all of this just by taking a walk. When we got three quarters of the way around the island, we came across an Australian couple that was sitting and having a beer. It turns out that he was the Maintenance Manager on the island, so Paul had to get the full ins and outs of how the desalination plant works, and how it went wrong. Whilst this was going on, just the other side of the reef there was some blowing of water, and a whole line of humpback whales went past. We must have been watching for about twenty minutes – they just kept coming. There is another reef further out than the Heron Island reef, and the two reefs form a funnel shape between islands. The annual migration of whales takes place every year between June and September, and around 40,000 whales pass the island. Wow! What a sight.



All in all this island has the potential to be the most idyllic spot in the world. No TV’s, no internet access and no phone signal. Nothing to disturb a few days of complete getting away from it all. The resort leaves a little to be desired – it has changed hands in the last year or so, so maybe they haven’t quite got their act together yet. But I would have no hesitation in coming back. The island itself is a perfect piece of paradise.

Sunday was the day we were due to leave. The weather was perfect, so Paul decided that he would stick with the launch. The launch arrived at 2.30pm, and we duly left at 3.00pm. The two crossings couldn’t have been more different. As we were leaving the island, we had two lots of whales passing by our side. The two hour crossing was as calm as calm. Hardly a ripple on the sea. We sat on the outside deck for the whole crossing – the downside to that was that it looked like I still had my sunglasses on even after I had taken them off. My face got a teeny weeny bit burned. We then got the shuttle bus from the port back to the airport for our flight to Brisbane and then on to Sydney for our last night in Australia. We said goodbye to Fran and her family in Brisbane, and then waited for our delayed flight to Sydney. Apparently the whole Qantas reservation system had crashed earlier on in the day which caused delays throughout the whole day. It wasn’t too bad – just an hour. But that did mean we didn’t arrived into Sydney until 10.30pm and got to the hotel at 11.30pm. Late night for me!