South American Adventure - Day Seven, Wednesday 26th February 2014

A very civilised start to the day today.  Breakfast at 8.45am.  We are the only guests at the ranch until later on today, so breakfast was all for us.  The table was laid with fresh fruit, cheese and an assortment of pastries – all cooked by Maria.  We had eggs – I was beginning to think there were no chickens in Argentina!  We are certainly eating well here.

Our activity this morning was horse riding – not sure whether the look on Paul’s face was horror or amazement.  We walked over to the stables where a little family of guanacos followed us.  Maria came out with a packet of biscuits, went over to one of the gates and called a couple of the sheep by name.  They duly trotted over to get their biscuits.  She insisted that her sheep – she had reared a few when they lost their mother – knew their names.  I saw nothing to disbelieve her!  The guanacos were not going to be left out, so they came as soon as they saw the biscuits opened.  Novel pets!

Augustine was coming out with us this morning – and had a hat on that would have adorned any tea pot in the UK.  It looked like he had a tea bag hanging from one side – but when he put it in his ear I realised what it was.  Ipods have reached Argentina!  We went over to the most enormous horses ever – well they seemed that way to me.  Will Paul get on one or won’t he?  Yes he will.  Then he got off and changed horses.  False start.  They produced a step to help you get on – an upturned bucket, very sturdy! – and fitted your feet into the stirrups once up there.  So far, so good.  We were going for a three hour ride to the cliffs, along the cliff tops and back.  We started out, and the sheep all ran in the same direction.  Augustine said when they see the horses they think a gaucho is coming to herd them together.  I don’t think we will quite make the grade for that job on this ride!

On the way we saw guanacos, maras (the wart hog like rabbits) and hundreds of woolly sheep.  It was so peaceful, just the noise of the horses hooves on the soft ground.  It took about an hour to reach the cliffs – Paul was more groucho than gaucho by this time.  His back did not take to riding a horse.  He got off – not sure how he is going to get back on as the upturned bucket didn’t make the journey with us.  From the top of the cliffs we saw elephant seals on the beach below.  The tide was quite a way out leaving rock pools and green seaweed strewn on the sands.  It was so beautiful – although really windy.  Roxanna had said we needed fleece and jacket – but as it was so hot when we left we only put a fleece on.  This was too much.  I am sure it was in the upper 20’s, but the wind was keeping it slightly cooler.  Paul tried again atop his horse for a little while, but felt much better walking than riding, so Roxanna and I went ahead and he and Augustine walked with their horses and put the world to rights for the next hour or so.  Augustine said he was now going to call him John Wayne.  Hmm.  It was a lovely, lovely morning.  Paul said he enjoyed it except for his back - not sure if he did really, but at least he tried.

Back to the ranch and lunch!  Another three course meal that I cut down to two – I really do not want to leave this place another stone heavier.  We had the most delightful prawn risotto – I might have to get the recipe for this before we leave.  And pudding – should have really said no but I am sure it had strawberries in there somewhere.  Need to keep up the five a day!

Two more people are joining us this afternoon, so we will go back to the beach with the elephant seals after they arrive – around 4pm.  So – an afternoon of leisure.  The second novelty of the day!

When the two Italian gentlemen arrived, we all got in the land rover and headed down to the beach again.  I don’t think I will ever get fed up of sitting and watching the elephant seals – every day is different.  We made our way to the beach, and there was just as many there if not more.  A couple of youngsters were play fighting in the surf, whilst the elders of the group just laid sunning themselves.  The wind had got up this afternoon, and the sand was getting in my eyes, nose, mouth and ears amongst other places!

We stayed there for an hour or so, then made our way down to the other end of the beach where the big boys hang out.  On the way we saw a single sea lion – I think he had got out at the wrong place.  He was the only one of his kind, so he had a look around and then just got back in and swam away.  The were well over twenty of the heavies at this end of the beach.  They were quite a bit livelier than they were yesterday.  Mouths were opening all over the place, trying to develop a hierarchy.  Usually, the one with the biggest elephant nose is the boss – he is the oldest.

One just laid on his side, on occasion scratching his stomach, and then stretched from the top of his head, through his hands and all the way down his back to his tail.  Just like a human!  They were all lined up, top and tailed, like kippers.  If one tried to get more comfortable, the other one would move and then it would all kick off – in a small way.  As they are all here to moult and nothing else, there is little point in getting in a proper fight.  Just worth telling the others who is boss if they will listen, and if they don’t, go back to sleep again.

One of the Italians had a lime green coat that zipped up the front, over the face an over the hood.  The eyes were like a beetles goggle eyes sewed into the coat.  Looked a bit daft, but I bet he didn’t have sand where the sun don’t shine!  The sun, though, was still shining.  It was so hot.  We said goodbye to the elephant seals and made our way to the land rover.  Last time for these wonderful creatures.  On the way back to the ranch we saw so many wild animals – it is just a lovely, lovely place here. So peaceful, and so special.

We did bring a momento back – when I took off my shoes I think half of the beach fell out.  It was gone 7pm when we got back – the sun doesn’t set until nearly 8.30pm at this time of year here.  Another lovely meal for dinner – Maria is such a good cook.  She brought us out a little clay pot as a present as we are leaving in the morning.  Another special touch from this special place.

Roxanna took us outside after dinner to show us the stars.  The moon doesn’t rise until well after 1am, so it was completely dark.  As soon as our eyes became accustomed to the darkness, the sky was absolutely full.  She showed us the Southern Cross, Jupiter and Mars.  She pointed out the milky way that goes from east to west.  An upside down Orion, Leo and Taurus.  A few more that I can’t remember which, but it was just magical – and so clear.  Another thing to remember.