Early
morning call this morning as we are leaving the Hotel Territorio and moving on
to the Peninsula Valdes – via a few places.
Filipe was meant to pick us up, but he had been called away to a cruise
ship that had arrived first thing. Sure
enough, when we opened the curtains this morning the Golden Princess was docked
at the pier. Thank goodness we were not
at Punta Tombo today – they may be getting close to their high season totals of
three thousand people in a day today!
Juan came
to pick us up at 8.00am – from what we had nick named the ghost hotel. There seemed to be hardly any guests, and
even less staff. I rang the bell three
times to check out, and it was only when we went and banged on the kitchen door
that someone came. A beautiful hotel in
a beautiful position, but I feel some things need a little tweaking. Juan’s English was only a tad better than our
Spanish. That could cause some fun. As we had missed the dolphins yesterday, the
“company” had decided that we could have a boat tour to see sea lions on the
way to Estancia Rincon Chico today. Not
a problem – the boat leaves at 9.30am and an hour or so after it arrived back we
would be arriving at the estancia for lunch.
The sun was
absolutely glorious today – the bay sparkled like diamonds. What a lovely day for hundreds of people to
pour off the ship and swamp the little town of Puerto Madryn
We drove to
a little town called Puerto Pyramides which is where the boat was leaving
from. The tide seemed quite a long way
out, but I assumed that there was a pier or something around the corner. We got decked out with life jackets, and had
to give our names and passport numbers.
Is this so they know who they have lost on the way? We walked down the road, and round onto the beach. There was an enormous double decker zodiac –
never seen one of them before – hitched up to an enormous tractor. A couple of smaller boats were taken down to
the sea edge by tractors, and then backed into the water. Novel!
We sat on the boat, fleeces and coats on, boiling. What on earth was the hold up? There were about ten people on the boat –
lovely. After about half an hour of beginning
to steam up, another trail of about thirty or so people came across the
sand. Cruise ship people! That filled the boat up to its rafters. Lovely, not.
We were
towed into the water and backed in, and then we set off. We were going at such a slow pace – probably
so the people that were taking pictures with their ipads were fine. I was beginning to think this was not such a
good idea. Some people went to the upper
deck, but I found a bit between decks where you got on and off that was
empty. Suited me fine. The safety instructions and all the
commentary was in Spanish – they didn’t speak a word of English. At least if they lost us they would know who
it was – the only ones that couldn’t understand a word. I wish I spoke Spanish!
As we
rounded the corner, the whole cliff top (when I say cliff, I mean a lump of
rock that was about the same height as the top tier of the zodiac) was full of
cormorants. All lined up and ready to
go. A couple were drying off their wings
after fishing. A giant petrol was flying
overhead – wow, what a sight! And then
the sea lions came into view. There were
tens and tens of them on the top of the rocks.
A mother and her babies, groups of adults, all just lifting their heads
to see who it was that came to pay them a visit. We slowly made our way along the cliffs,
watching all the sea lions from a short distance. The people made me a bit annoyed – ipads and
elbows everywhere. Hey ho.
We were out
for about an hour, then the tractor backed into the water and we had to shoot
straight into the trailer bit to get hooked up.
Made it with the first shot! I
think he had done that before. We were
towed back up the sand, and off the boat.
That was on OK trip – my god I am getting fussy. Paul said he thought that was far too sedate
and sanitised for me – he was totally right – but he said it was perfect for
him. Good. Something I have done right at last, albeit
unintentionally.
We got back
in the car, and Juan pointed at the map – we were going to go on a small
expedition of the peninsula before getting to Rincon Chico. Neither of us really wanted that, but it was
very hard to portray – it was easier to just let him go where he wanted. We drove for about an hour – great expanse of
nothingness either side except for a few choique’s – ostrich like birds –
roaming freely. Then he spotted an
armadillo – excellent! Now I have seen
one. And in Spanish!!
We took
some photographs at the Mirador viewpoint, lovely views, but just wanted to get
where we were going now. Saw some
rabbits that were as big as wart hogs.
My god – what is coming next!
Half an hour and we were turning in to the road that led to Estancia
Rincon Chico. Hurrah! The gravel roads that we had been on since
virtually leaving Puerto Pyramides seemed to have done something to the car –
there was a distinct sound of something wanting to fall off at any minute. Not my problem now we are here!!
We arrived
at the Estancia – a working sheep ranch that has eight rooms for guests. Roxanna met us at the gate, and showed us to
our room. What a view! A beautiful expanse of nothing but peaceful
nothingness. The place is very rustic –
electricity is only on between 7pm and 11pm.
Who needs electricity? But what a
wonderful place. This is my sort of
holiday. Paul’s sort can come later –
now it is my turn!
We had
lunch cooked for us – it is full board here.
One choice – take it or leave it – but lovely home cooked food by the
owner Maria. A three course lunch that
was probably the best food that we have eaten since we arrived on this
continent. We finished lunch, and within
fifteen minutes the land rover was ready for us at the front, and we set off
for the twenty minute drive to the beach to see the elephant seals. This is the reason you come to Estancia
Rincon Chico. Their beaches are full of
elephant seals at various times of the year.
Even David Attenborough has been here to film documentaries on the
animals. We walked the last few yards,
and rounded the corner onto the beach.
There were at least thirty males laying on the beach, and as we crept at
the back some lifted their heads to see if we were going to cause any
trouble. They soon laid them back down
when they felt we were no threat. We had
to keep quite low, as someone standing up might look as though they were ready
for a fight. With weights up to three
tonnes per animal – we were not ready for a fight!
We sat at
the back and watched the seals moving from one position to another. At this time of year the seals are
predominantly males that have come onto the beach to moult. What is it with us – if we come to see an
animal it is in the process of moulting!
Some of them had half their old skin on – it looked as if they had
ragged clothes on. They have hands like
ours with fingernails, that they use to scratch themselves to help with getting
rid of the skin. Once they start to
moult, they lay on the beach in the sun to dry out the old skin so that it
comes off quicker. Once they have
moulted completely, the older ones go back in the sea and then swim to the Falklands . Short
trip of about 1,500 kilometres! One made
his way down the beach and swam off when we were there. Amazing!
We watched
for about an hour – two males having a face off, one male pushing the other
into the sea – and all of this around twenty feet away. “You like?” says Roxanna. “We go to see bigger ones!” We walked for fifteen or so minutes around
the beach to the other side of the cliff – passing a few odds and sods of
elephant seals on the way – and there was about twenty massive seals. Why do all the biggest ones congregate in the
same area? We got even closer to these
ones – around six feet away. Just
sitting and listening to their snorts – the “boss” of the group lets out an
enormous yell, but no-one cares. In this
season, no-one has to be the alpha male.
In the reproducing season the beach is completely covered, but you can’t
get this close as the males are usually ready for a fight.
How long we
sat and watched I don’t know – all I know is that my bum went numb. Paul had a bright blue coat on that one of
the biggest seals seemed to eye up – he kept flopping his way nearer and nearer
to him. If a seal wants to sit where we
are, he will sit there. You either move
or get sat on – and with seals up to five tonnes moving is the best option. How surreal it felt to be sitting on a rock
in the middle of the biggest, fattest elephant seals that I have ever
seen. What an experience! We walked back to the land rover to make our
way back to the house, and saw more of the wart hog rabbits. Weird creatures! And ostriches and guanacos and hundreds of
sheep. What a place.
It was gone
seven when we got back to the house, so the electricity was on. I had brought my hair dryer with me, as I had
a feeling there wouldn’t be one here, and I was right. I am sure they won’t mind me using it once a
day! The water was hot for the shower, and
my camera battery was plugged in to recharge.
I had, surprisingly, been taking quite a few photos!
Dinner was
another three course affair – good job we are only here for two nights as we
might have left as big as a house.
Augustin, the owner and Maria’s husband, came and introduced himself and
told us the history of the estancia. He
is fifth generation on the farm, and it was he that opened it for guests in
2001. Very interesting story – and he
left a DVD for us to watch of the David Attenborough documentary that was shot
here. Very interesting!
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