Wednesday 5 March 2014

South American Adventure - Day Fourteen, Wednesday 5th March 2014


Paul had decided that we were going to go mountain biking this morning.  Sounds wonderful – not!  But, I had given him the choice here, so with a smile on my face I agreed to give it a go.  So, after another lovely breakfast JP brings the car around with four bikes on the back.  Macarena is driving again today – so we have a support vehicle.  Bit like the Tour de France.  We are going to cycle on the Estancia that the hotel is located on, so not far to go.  We stop at the little gaucho huts, but there is no-one home except a little black dog called Tequila.  What a little dear!  He was rescued by the gauchos from the river several weeks ago when he was very tiny – only a couple of weeks old.  The rest of the litter and the mother were never found – they think they either drowned or an eagle got the pups.  The staff from the hotel “adopted” him, and took him to their hostel where they all stay, and between them and inbetween their shifts and days off they weaned him and took care of him.  Now he is about ten weeks old, he has been given back to the gauchos for training – they knew the mother and she was a good working dog, so they think this one will be as well. 

He was so pleased to see Macarena and JP that he didn’t want to leave them, so he came with us the short distance in the car.  We stopped, got the bikes off the back and kitted up with helmets and gloves.  The wind decided to pick up at this point.  It was a little downhill to start, so that bit was easy.  Then there was a long, long uphill.  Not a steep uphill, but enough for my leg muscles to start complaining so I got off and walked.  Not exactly what Paul had in mind – he was way up ahead.  Oh dear – I think I might just give up and sit in the support vehicle.  At least that way Paul can get a good ride in.  When we got to the top of the hill, there was a dried up river bed to cross, and the wind had really picked up.  Paul decided that we would turn round and ride back – at least most of the way was downhill and the wind would be behind us.  We had been riding for about forty minutes (or walking in some cases!) so with the way back it would have been about an hour.  At least we can say that we tried.  Tequila was quite happy sitting in the car watching!

It was a fairly easy ride back, being mostly downhill and the wind pushing us.  The only small issued were avoiding the rocks and tree roots that were there to help you sail over the handle bars if you weren’t looking.  I did my best to avoid that – in fact we all did.  Paul decided to cycle back to the gaucho huts - uphill – show off!  We loaded the bikes back onto the back of the car, and decided to go back for a coffee, pick up a packed lunch, and go back to the park for a couple of short hikes.  Sounds like a plan – Tequila didn’t agree.  It didn’t include him.  No matter how we tried to leave him, he just came bounding up.  We had to take the car a little way down the hill, and JP took him back.  After a couple of false starts, he managed to get away.

We had a coffee, picked up the lunch and headed for another entrance to the park at Laguna Azul.  It was really windy now – the wind had been whistling around the car on the way.  A few kilometres inside the park entrance was a picnic spot – with a large inside room if it was windy.  It was, so we set up the picnic inside.  Just normal sandwiches today – but they were smoked salmon – and cakes and muffins and other bits and pieces.  Not bad for being knocked up in a few minutes!  This place also had cooking equipment in, tea and coffee, water – so for anyone that was caught short it was great.  We didn’t need any because we had out own (don’t think they ran to smoked salmon sandwiches!).

By the time we packed up, the wind had completely died.  The sun was out, and it was again a perfect day.  Macarena decided to come on the hike with us – it was a beautiful walk.  Up through the forest and along the side of the mountain, with the view of the lake and the three towers that we could see from our room.  The top of them was shrouded in cloud, but the sun was out so shone on the water and snow on the top of the mountains.  It wasn’t a long hike, probably an hour or so, but it was really pleasant.  Tee shirt weather again, and no wind.  JP said he had never known the weather to be so good three days on the trot.  Lucky, lucky, lucky!

We then drove a while to come to another lovely waterfall – Cascada Paine.  There was so much water coming down – it was really full today.  The sun must be melting the snow on the lower mountains.  The sun was shining on the spray, and in several places you could see a rainbow.  Another beautiful spot.  So many places, and hardly any other people.  Peaceful and beautiful.

We were driving from here, and came to Laguna Amarga – and there in the distance around the corner was the biggest flock of flamingos we had seen so far.  What a treat!  We pulled up to take some pictures, but the water was probably two hundred yards away from the road.  The bank didn’t look to bad to get down (not too sure about getting back up again, but not to worry about that yet) so Macarena and I climbed down to get a bit closer.  We edged closer, and the ones closest to us didn’t really like us being there, so started to swim towards the middle of the lake.  Some were still standing at the edge, so we got a bit closer and a bit closer.  One decided to take off, and then they all went.  Never seen a flock of flamingos fly before – it was fantastic.  Sorry to the other people that had just pulled up to get some pictures!  The bank this far down was easier to climb back up, so no rope needed to pull me in!

One thing left on the list then – the puma!  We had to give it one last go.  Macarena had seen one near to where their cave is, so we headed for there.  We pulled off the road, and drove down the grassy hill to as close to the cave as we thought we ought to get.  Then we got out and walked.  There were a few bones all around, but no puma.  It was just not to be today.  There was a carcass of a guanaco stripped clean, so they are here somewhere.  Probably in the bushes taking pictures of us!!


A lovely last day at Awasi.  It really is a fantastic experience – and having your own driver and guide you can do what you want, when you want, and change your mind if you so choose.  Otherwise we might have been mountain biking all day!  JP and Macarena joined us for dinner this evening – another good point to this hotel.  They know how to look after their staff as well as customers.  And – the bonus – my glasses turned up.  They have had a very circuitous route – Awasi to El Calafate back to Awasi (but not dropped off) back to El Calafate dropped off at Eolo Hotel (in El Calafate – why??) and then here.  Just in time!

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