Sunday 16 March 2014

South American Adventure - Day Twenty Five, Sunday 16th March 2014


Today is the last full day in Rio.  After a relaxed breakfast, we have booked a tour with Eat Rio.  This is a walking tour, tasting typical Brazilian food.  We took at taxi to the Nova Capela Restaurant, which is where the tour was starting in the Lapa District.  Good start – the restaurant was chained closed.  We were slightly early, but soon Tom and Manuella arrived, follwed by two American couples and a German lady.  Tom is from UK originally, but is now married to Manuella and has set up the Eat Rio Tours.  They were as surprised that the restaurant was closed as well.  No problem.  That is what I like to hear!

We moved down the road five minutes, and arranged to have the same dish in a different restaurant.  It was a salted cod fish and other stuff ball, deep fried to give it a crispy shell.  This was cut open, drizzled with olive oil and then (optionally) a hot pepper sauce poured on.  It was delicious.  This was washed down with a traditional pineapple and mint drink.  Round one done – we set off to the next restaurant.

We then walked by the Lapa Arches, or the Carioqua Aquaduct, which were built in the 1700’s.  This was originally built to carry water to the part of the city that was inhabited, but this actual part of it has two storey arches that span around 270 metres.  Very impressive.  It is not used for this any more – in actual fact I don’t think at the moment it is used for anything.  We then walked past the Escardaria Seladon, a set of steps in done in mosaic by a penniless artist from scraps in the 1990’s.  They were done to improve the look of the steps.  He was found burnt to death on them in 2013.  Yuk!

We then went on to our second tasting.  We went to a fruit and vegetable market, and had a tapiocas.  I can remember this name, as I thought it was going to be a milk pudding!  It wasn’t.  It was made of a starch from a vegetable called Manioc.  After going through some process to get the starch, there are ladies on the stall with frying pans than turn it into tapiocas.  They fry it, then put in either a sweet or savoury filling, turn it in half like an omelette and you eat it like a sandwich.  It was delicious, if somewhat different to anything I have tasted before.

The whole of the fruit and veg market was buzzing.  Many of the stalls were cutting the fruit to let you taste it.  We had some mango that was so sweet – and so cheap!  Some of the fruits were recognisable, but some I had never seen before.  We then went on to have another drink.  This was made with pure sugar cane.  There were a couple of men with a machine in a van, and they fed the actual sugar cane into it.  A bit like a big juicer.  The liquid that came out was then mixed with other things – not sure what, and then you had it in the cup.  There was a squeeze of lime that went in last.  Another delicious drink.

We then went into the metro.  A very good system.  The station and the train were air conditioned – lovely, it was a very hot day again.  We went two stops, and then got off in another district.  We then had a weird soup.  I will explain it.  It contains cyanide, a plant that is an anaesthetic, a couple of other things that make it gloopy and a whole prawn.  They are selling it – so I am eating it!  Apparently the cyanide is cooked out, so it isn’t poisonous when you come to eat it.  Hope the chef hasn’t got the hump about anything!  It wasn’t too bad – very salty, and no matter how I tried to eat the prawn whole I couldn’t bear the thought of the crunch, so shelled it.  The shell was really soft, and very hard to peel.  Still did it though.  My mouth definitely went a bit numb, but I didn’t fall down dead (for the second day in a row!).  We also had a dish made of the acai berry here.  A very refreshing frozen drink type thing.  Made your mouth and teeth purple.  Went with the fact that I couldn’t feel them anyway!

We then walked some more to another market, and had a very alcoholic drink here over ice that came in either passion fruit or coconut flavour.  That made everyone happy!  Strong, but pleasant.  Out last stop was in a restaurant that had been converted from slave quarters before slavery was abolished.  We had Brazilian beer (think we might have already tried that one!) and then another traditional Brazilian dish.  There was a meat dish that was stew like with beans and pork rib, rice, a green kale like vegetable, and something else that you sprinkle over the top.  It was lovely – but by this time everyone was full to the brim.  There was live music here, and full of locals having a very social Sunday afternoon.

What a lovely tour. I think I have remembered everything we had to eat – so much.  No idea about the names though.  Meeting local people, and trying food that we would not have even known what it was let alone order it.  A really good idea.

After the tour we got a taxi to the base of Sugar Loaf Mountain.  We were going up for the sunset.  A really good time to go – there was no queues for the cable car at all.  Sixty one reais each – around £17.  We rode the first cable car, then took some pictures from the first stage before getting on the next cable car to get to the top of Sugar Loaf.  The views from the top are stunning – 360 degrees around the whole of Rio.  We got up to the top at around 5pm, so half an hour or so to wait for the sun to go behind the mountains behind the Christ statue.  We had a little walk around the park area at the top – Paul saw a monkey at the point when I had lost him, so I never got to see one.  There were a few people up there, but nowhere near as many as during the day.  And I think this is the best time to come.  You get the views in daylight, and the magical rays and colours that the sunset brings.  I think the sun should have set a few inches to the left, so that it was right behind the statue.  Instead it went down behind a hill full of electric and power pylons.  Nice!

No waiting to go back down either.  We thought we would try and walk back to the hotel – didn’t look that far when we up the mountain.  As long as there was a way through a couple of other mountains, Copacabana Beach would be right there.  After walking about half an hour, and not really knowing where we were, we decided it would be beneficial to grab a taxi.  I think that was the right choice.  We would have got back to the hotel about midnight!


A quick drink when we got back.  Paul bumped into a Restaurant Manager that he had been talking to last night when he thought I was not coming out of the favela.  He was glad to see me too!  Who doesn’t know where I have been?

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