Paul put his boots in his backpack, but tied mine most precariously on the outside – they were hanging over the sea all the way! As we came up to the beach, the little shelter had been erected again, and had good supplies of water, sun cream, insect repellent and towels to dry your feet on – they think of everything. This is an expedition without having to think for yourself! After adorning the hiking boots, we were introduced to some of the Wandjina tribe that were there to escort us to their Aboriginal Art Gallery. We were all given two fingers of ochre on each cheek – made me think of the SAS, although looking at our fellow guests I think that was where the likeness ended! We had to then hike up to a saddle of rock that forms the art gallery. It was about 45 minutes uphill, and was quite steep in places – but there were members of staff at every dodgy point to help. Orion really do make sure that even those with less mobility have every chance of joining the expeditions if they so wish.
The views from the trail on the way up are staggering. Near the top, the overhang can be seen. One of the elders of the tribe, Donny Woolandooja, was at the top to meet us and to give us an explanation of the art. The figures that had been painted here had been there for many, many years, and his father Sam Woolandooja had repainted them in 1971. They had been originally painted many years before, around 150 I think. Apparently, the elder of the tribe does this to keep the tradition going. He spoke excellent English, and had quite a sense of humour. He said there were other galleries not far from here, around five hours walk. His not far and mine are two different things. He also said that he doesn’t go far when it is as cold as this – bearing in mind it is about 29 degrees, and everyone is sweating buckets after the exertion of climbing up the gallery, I thought he was joking. But no, to him it is cold. The figures painted in here are mostly on the ceiling, as that is where they want their spirit to go when they die. Wandjina figures are some of the most visually striking of all images in Kimberley art. Wandjina are usually painted as full length or head and shoulders, either standing or lying horizontally. Their large mouthless faces feature enormous black eyes flanking a beak like nose. The head is usually surrounded by a band with outward radiating lines. Elaborate head dresses are both the hair of the Wandjinas and the clouds. Long lines coming out from the hair are the feathers which Wandjinas wore and the lightning which they control. Wandjina ceremonies to ensure the timely beginning of the monsoon wet season and sufficient rainfall are held during December and January, following which the rains usually begin. It is absolutely fascinating.
The journey back down is almost as difficult as the journey up – but it was worth the effort. When we get back down to the beach, the Wanjina have set a fire with lots of smoke. Everyone has to walk through the smoke, as it is supposed to give you health and make everything right. Perhaps I had better walk through several times! There was a little tent with paintings for sale – I had brought my credit card just in case (they may be Aboriginal but they know how to take money!) but to Paul’s delight they had started to pack up by the time we got there.
In the zodiac on the way back to the boat Paul spies a huge bird of prey circling overhead. I took several pictures – all out of focus! One day I will get it right! We get back, and the lunch on deck is Japanese. A quick snooze in the sunbed on Deck 6, and it is time for the next zodiac adventure. We had moved a few miles along the coast during lunch, to anchor closer to Montgomery Reef.
This time, the padded benches are not in the zodiacs, as they are going to take eight people per boat. The seats on the side are not that bad – in actual fact I think I prefer them. We zoom off towards Montgomery Reef. After we had been going about ten minutes we all pull up around Mick’s zodiac – he had pulled a huge venomous sea snake out of the water, and was showing everyone. If it had bitten him, he would have had around eight minutes before he died! “Don’t tell my wife” he says – obviously she knows what he is like! We then go on, to clear blue sea everywhere. The tide here is about ten metres between low and high tide. Harry says that earlier that morning, Orion could have quite easily sailed over this spot. Before our eyes, the sea seemed to be lifting out of the water. It was an optical illusion – the sea wasn’t lifting out of the water, rather than the tide was going out and the sea was cascading off the reef. As the minutes went on, some places were gushing like white water rafting. There is something like so many million gallons of sea coming off the reef every minute – I can’t remember exactly. The reef is 400 square kilometres, so is absolutely huge – not pretty coral though, more mud like!
There is a gap in the reef, that leaves a river that we all travel up. The reef is becoming bigger and bigger, and in some places it is like waterfalls coming off. There are turtles that keep popping their heads up, and egrets that are landing on the reef looking for food. The reef appearing like that is absolutely amazing, and apparently does not happen like that anywhere else in the world. As we start to travel back, there is a huge sandbank appearing before us. Paul looks, and says “I think someone is having a picnic on there”. As we get level with it, there is the Orion staff with trays full of Mai Tais for everyone. They have set up their umbrella and flag, and all the zodiacs land for cocktails on the sandbank! Amazing!
As we travel back to the ship, there is the most amazing sunset, with blues, pinks, oranges and reds all over the sky. What a lovely end to the trip.
When we get back on board, it is a quick shower and change ready for the recap on the day, and the briefing on tomorrow’s itinerary. In the recap, Max asks if anyone saw the meteor that went across the sky last night. Apparently it was seen all over the world, and hit the headlines in the newspapers. Perhaps it wasn’t the mad Irish Captain after all!
After singing Land of Hope & Glory in tribute to the Queen (we missed the whole thing that was shown live on the TV’s as we were still in the zodiacs, but apparently it rained) we had a Diamond Jubilee Dinner in celebration. That is good enough for me!
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